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Tips To Get Rid Of The Pet Smell Out Of A Carpet

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Updated on
February 8, 2026

Pet smell in carpet usually means something has soaked in—most often urine—then lingered in the fibres, underlay, or even the floor beneath. If you only treat the surface, the odour often returns on the next humid day, or when the room warms up.

The aim is simple: find the source, lift out as much contamination as you can, and dry the area properly so you don’t trade “pet odour” for damp or mould. The steps below keep things practical, safe for a typical Australian home, and focused on results rather than fragrance.

Why pet odours hang around in carpet

Carpet is a layered sponge: fibre on top, backing below, and usually underlay underneath. Liquids can pass through quickly, then sit where airflow is poor. That’s why the smell can persist even after repeated surface cleaning.

  • Urine is the most stubborn, because it can soak into underlay and leave residues that re-smell later (especially in warm, damp conditions).
  • Dander, saliva, and “outside” smells (wet dog, muddy paws) tend to sit closer to the surface and respond better to thorough vacuuming and periodic deep cleaning.

Quick check: find the exact spot first

Before you start spraying products, locate the strongest source. If it’s urine, treating the wrong patch wastes time and can spread moisture.

  • Use your nose close to the carpet (unpleasant, but effective), especially around skirting boards and favourite pet corners.
  • In a dark room, a UV torch can help reveal old urine patches that look clean in daylight.

First response: what to do right away (fresh accidents)

Speed matters. The goal is to remove as much liquid as possible before it sinks deeper.

  • Blot, don’t rub. Press paper towel or a clean cloth down firmly, then lift. Repeat with fresh towel until little transfers.
  • Apply an enzyme cleaner and fully saturate the affected area. For urine, enzymes are designed to break down the organic residues that keep producing odour. Follow the label dwell time and keep pets off the area until it’s dry.
  • Dry thoroughly. Use airflow (fans), and if you have it, a wet/dry vacuum to extract moisture after treatment.

When (and how) to use baking soda

Baking soda can help with residual smells, but it works best as a dry, finishing step—after the main clean-up and once the area is mostly dry.

  • Lightly sprinkle baking soda over the area.
  • Leave it for several hours (overnight is fine).
  • Vacuum slowly and thoroughly.

If you add baking soda onto wet carpet, it tends to clump and sit in the pile, making cleanup harder and doing less for odour.

Vinegar: useful, but not a cure-all

A diluted vinegar-and-water wipe can reduce some smells, but it doesn’t reliably remove the underlying urine residues the way enzyme products are designed to. If you use it, keep it gentle and avoid over-wetting the carpet.

Never mix vinegar with bleach or bleach-containing products. If you’re unsure what’s been used previously, rinse with clean water (lightly) and extract, then allow the area to dry.

Deep cleaning: routine maintenance that actually helps

Even when you’re not dealing with a single “accident spot”, carpets hold fine particles (hair, dander, tracked-in dirt) that can contribute to a stale smell over time.

  • Vacuum regularly and go slowly over high-traffic pet areas.
  • Deep-clean periodically using hot-water extraction (a hired machine or a professional). This helps lift embedded grime and reduces overall odour load.

If urine has reached the underlay, deep cleaning the surface alone may reduce smell temporarily without fully solving it.

Stubborn urine smells: what usually works

If the odour keeps coming back, assume the contamination is deeper than the carpet pile.

  • Use an enzyme cleaner correctly. Most failures come from not using enough product, not allowing enough dwell time, or extracting too early. Follow the label closely.
  • Treat a wider area than the visible stain. Urine spreads outward and down.
  • Extract, then dry fast. Airflow matters. Slow drying increases the risk of mould and “damp” smells.

Drying matters (and why it’s not optional)

Any time you wet carpet—spot cleaning or machine cleaning—drying is part of the job. Damp carpet and underlay can support mould growth and worsen indoor air quality, especially for people with asthma or allergies.5, 6, 7

  • Open windows when weather permits and create cross-ventilation.6
  • Use fans to move air across the surface.
  • If the area was heavily soaked, consider a dehumidifier to speed drying.

Wet areas and water damage should be cleaned up promptly; guidance commonly recommends acting within 24–48 hours to reduce mould risk.4

When to call a professional (and when replacement is realistic)

Professional carpet cleaners can be worth it when:

  • the smell returns after repeated correct enzyme treatment
  • the patch is large, old, or has soaked into underlay
  • the room has a general musty odour after cleaning (suggesting slow drying or deeper moisture)

If carpet or underlay is mould-contaminated, health advice notes that absorbent materials may need professional cleaning or replacement if they can’t be cleaned and dried completely.6, 8

Preventing pet odour returning

  • Keep a small “accident kit” ready: paper towels, gloves, enzyme cleaner, and a clean cloth.
  • Vacuum more often in pet zones, especially where pets sleep.
  • Dry spills and wet-paw tracks quickly (rainy days are when the house smell builds).
  • Address repeat toileting areas with proper enzymatic treatment so scent cues are removed, not masked.

Final thoughts

Carpet odour problems are usually simple in principle: the smell is telling you where residue remains. Blot early, use an enzyme cleaner for urine, extract what you can, and dry the area properly. When the smell persists, it’s often in the underlay—at that point, a professional clean (or selective replacement) is sometimes the cleanest, calmest fix.

References

  1. RSPCA Australia (general pet care and welfare information)
  2. Bunnings Australia – How to clean pet urine from carpet (Britex guide)
  3. American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) – Pet care resources (general reference)
  4. SafeWork NSW – Mould (prevention and prompt clean-up, 24–48 hours)
  5. National Asthma Council Australia – Mould health hazard warning and prevention checklist
  6. NSW Health – Mould (ventilation, moisture control, drying water-damaged materials)
  7. ACT Government – Mould (health effects, prevention, drying and cleaning guidance)
  8. Defence Housing Australia – Mould (ventilation, drying, carpets may need professional cleaning or replacement)
  9. YourHome (Australian Government initiative) – Indoor air quality (ventilation and moisture control)
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