Snakes as Pets – consider a Python

Most people look up “pet python” care when they’re weighing up the commitment, checking what the setup really costs, or trying to sort out husbandry details before they bring a snake home. With pythons, small choices—heat, enclosure security, feeding practices, permits—tend to be the difference between a calm, thriving animal and a stressed one that won’t feed.

Pythons can do well in captivity when their world is simple and steady: safe hiding places, a reliable temperature gradient, clean water, and food offered in a way that doesn’t injure the snake. They’re also tightly regulated in Australia, and the legal side is not optional.

What a “pet python” is in Australia

In Australia, the pythons kept as pets are native reptiles, and ownership is regulated by state and territory wildlife laws. In NSW, for example, you need the appropriate biodiversity conservation licence before you start keeping a native reptile, and pet reptiles must be captive-bred (not taken from the wild).^{1, 2}

Exotic “pet pythons” you might see online (such as ball pythons) are not legal to keep as pets in NSW, and similar restrictions exist elsewhere.³

Is a python the right kind of pet for you?

A python is usually a quiet, mostly hands-off animal. It spends long stretches hidden, then becomes active in its own time—often at dusk or overnight—moving through its enclosure and testing the same routes again and again.

Pros

• Low day-to-day demands once the enclosure is properly set up (heat, shelter, water, cleaning routine).⁴
• No daily feeding—many pythons eat on a schedule measured in weeks, not days, depending on age and size.⁴
• Long-lived when kept well, which appeals to people who want a long-term animal rather than a short-term project.⁴

Cons

• Setup matters more than cuddles. The enclosure and heating equipment are the “life support system”, and failures can be serious.⁴
• Handling isn’t the point. Reptiles aren’t built for frequent handling, and over-handling can be risky for both snake and keeper.⁵
• Hygiene is non-negotiable. Reptiles can carry Salmonella, and the risk rises when cleaning, handling, or preparing prey items.⁶
• Legal obligations and record keeping may apply depending on your location and species.^{1, 2}

Choosing a suitable python species

Start with species that are commonly kept, captive-bred, and well understood by local vets and licensed breeders. In many parts of Australia, carpet pythons and children’s pythons are commonly kept, but suitability depends on your space, confidence, and what is legal where you live.

Instead of choosing by looks alone, choose by adult size and temperament range, then build the enclosure for the adult animal. A juvenile will grow into the space you provide; it won’t stay “small because the tank is small”.

Before you buy, confirm:

• the exact species/subspecies and expected adult size
• that it is captive-bred and legally sourced, with paperwork/receipt
• which licence (and record book) you must hold in your state or territory

Enclosure basics: stable heat, tight security, places to hide

A python’s enclosure should feel like a safe, sealed little landscape: warm on one side, cooler on the other, with at least one snug hide so the snake can disappear completely. Temperature choice is not cosmetic—it’s how the snake regulates its body, digestion, and immune function.

For carpet pythons, RSPCA guidance describes a clear thermal gradient, with a cooler end around 24–26 °C and a hotter end around 35–38 °C, plus a night-time drop (roughly low-to-mid 20s).⁴

Humidity needs vary by species and local conditions, but carpet pythons are often kept around moderate humidity levels; RSPCA notes coastal carpet pythons commonly do well around 40–60% with access to a humid hide when needed.⁴

Placement in the house matters

A bright window can look like the obvious spot, but it can also overheat an enclosure fast, and glass filters out UVB. RSPCA advice warns that direct sun through a window can overheat and potentially kill a reptile, and that windows can also let heat escape and chill the enclosure.⁷

Non-negotiables for the enclosure

• Escape-proof security (tight-fitting doors/lids, reliable locks). A python is patient and strong.
• Thermal gradient measured with appropriate thermometers (don’t guess by feel).⁴
• At least one proper hide (often more than one is better), sized so the snake can touch the sides while curled.
• Fresh water available at all times, in a heavy bowl that can’t be easily tipped.
• A cleaning routine that keeps the enclosure dry and hygienic without using harsh residues.

Feeding: safe prey, realistic schedules, and a calm routine

Pythons are carnivores. In captivity, the safest approach is properly thawed frozen prey that is humanely killed. RSPCA guidance for carpet pythons explicitly advises against live prey, as it can injure the snake, and outlines feeding frequency changing with age (more frequent for young snakes, less frequent for adults).⁴

Simple feeding principles

• Don’t feed live prey. It can bite and scratch, sometimes severely.⁴
• Feed to body condition, not just the calendar. Adults often need less frequent meals than juveniles.⁴
• Give the snake privacy after feeding. Handling too soon can lead to regurgitation.
• Keep prey handling hygienic. Frozen rodents can be a Salmonella source—wash hands and keep preparation away from food areas.⁶

Handling and interaction: less is usually better

Handling should be purposeful: short, calm sessions, with full body support, and only when the snake is settled and feeding reliably. Animal Welfare Victoria notes that reptiles are not companion animals in the usual sense and that, in most cases, handling too often can be dangerous to both reptile and owner.⁵

A good rule is to focus interaction on husbandry: quiet cleaning, fresh water, a stable heat cycle, and predictable feeding. Many pythons become easier to work with when their environment stays consistent and they’re not repeatedly disturbed.

Common health problems (and what usually prevents them)

Most python health issues trace back to husbandry—temperature that’s too cool, poor ventilation, dirty substrate, dehydration, or chronic stress from an exposed enclosure.

Problems people commonly run into

• Respiratory illness (often linked to low temperatures, damp/dirty conditions, or poor ventilation)
• Mites (often introduced on new animals, second-hand enclosures, or contaminated furnishings)
• Feeding issues (commonly from incorrect temperatures, lack of secure hides, or frequent disturbance)
• Retained shed (often dehydration or lack of access to appropriate humidity/microclimates)

If your python is wheezing, holding its mouth open, producing bubbles or discharge around the nose, has a sudden change in behaviour, or repeatedly refuses food after husbandry has been corrected, book a reptile-experienced veterinarian promptly.

Hygiene and Salmonella: protect the people in the house

Reptiles can carry Salmonella without looking unwell. Victoria’s Better Health Channel recommends thorough handwashing after touching reptiles or anything in the area where they live or roam, keeping reptiles and their equipment out of kitchens and food-prep areas, and discouraging direct handling by children under five and other higher-risk people.⁶

Practical habits that make a real difference:

• wash hands with soap and warm water after handling the snake, its enclosure, or its food⁶
• don’t clean bowls or enclosure items in the kitchen sink⁶
• store and thaw prey safely, away from human food and food surfaces⁶

Legal considerations in Australia (licences, sourcing, and paperwork)

Rules vary by state and territory, but the theme is consistent: native reptiles are protected, wild-caught animals are not legal pets, and permits are often required.

Quick legal checks to make before buying

• Confirm the licence you need in your state/territory and obtain it before you acquire the animal. In NSW, you must have the appropriate licence before you start keeping a native animal as a pet.^{1, 2}
• Buy only from a lawful source (licensed breeder/dealer) and keep receipts/records. NSW guidance states pet native reptiles must be bought from licensed dealers or breeders, and it is against the law to take native reptiles from the wild.³
• Know your local system. Queensland and South Australia, for example, also operate permit schemes for keeping native animals as pets.^{8, 9}

Final thoughts

A pet python works best when you treat the enclosure like a small climate you’re responsible for, not a box the snake “lives in”. Build for the adult animal, keep the heat steady, feed safely, handle lightly, and stay on the right side of your local wildlife laws. In return, you get a calm presence—silent, alert, and very old-fashioned in its rhythms.

References

1. NSW Environment & Heritage – Native animals as pets (licences and permits)
2. Service NSW – Apply for a companion native animal keeper licence
3. NSW Environment & Heritage – Reptile keeper licences (native reptiles, lawful sourcing, exotics)
4. RSPCA Knowledgebase – How should I care for my carpet python?
5. Agriculture Victoria (Animal Welfare Victoria) – Caring for your pet reptile
6. Better Health Channel (Victoria) – Pets: safe handling of reptiles and tropical fish
7. RSPCA Australia – Finding the right location for your reptile’s enclosure
8. Queensland Government – Licences to keep, use or display native animals
9. South Australian Department for Environment and Water – Keep and sell native animals (permits)