Setting up a Pet Spider Enclosure

Most people land on spider-enclosure advice for one reason: they’ve already got (or are about to buy) a pet spider, and they want a setup that won’t end in an escape, a fall, or a slow decline from the wrong temperature and airflow.

A spider enclosure is less about “decoration” and more about small, practical controls—space, ventilation, substrate depth, a secure lid, and a water source—tuned to how that species lives in the wild. Get those right first, then worry about what it looks like.

Before you begin: species, legality, and safety in Australia

Australia has many spiders that are not suitable for keeping, and some that are regulated. Rules also differ by state and territory, and they change often enough that it’s worth checking before you buy.

• Don’t take spiders from the wild. Beyond the welfare issues, it can breach wildlife laws and disrupt local populations.
• Buy only from lawful sources. If a seller can’t clearly explain the animal’s legal status and origin, walk away.
• Know your state’s licence requirements. For example, in Queensland native tarantulas (Theraphosidae) are regulated under the native animal licensing framework, and are not treated as “exempt” invertebrates.^{1, 2} In NSW, native animal keeping is managed through a licensing system and conditions include acquiring animals only from appropriately licensed suppliers.^{3, 4}

If you’re unsure which category your spider falls into, check your state environment department’s “native animal keeping” pages (or call them). It’s the quickest way to avoid accidentally doing the wrong thing.^{2, 5, 6}

Choose a spider that matches the keeper

“Good pet spider” usually means: tolerant of a stable indoor climate, not highly defensive, not fast and flighty, and not dependent on narrow humidity bands. Even then, spiders are hands-off animals. Most stress shows up as hiding, refusing food, or frantic pacing—quiet signals you have to notice.

Keep handling to an absolute minimum. Many common pet species don’t benefit from it, and falls are a major risk—an enclosure is safer than a hand.

Select the right enclosure (size, shape, and security)

Pick the enclosure around how the spider moves:

• Terrestrial/burrowing species: more floor space, lower height, deeper substrate. The goal is safe footing and room to dig.
• Arboreal species: more height, strong vertical hides (like cork bark), and secure anchor points for webbing.

Security matters more than volume. Use a tight-fitting lid and assume the spider can exploit small gaps. Ventilation holes should be fine enough to prevent escape, especially for juveniles.

Avoid tall enclosures for heavy-bodied terrestrials. A fall onto hard decor can be fatal. Keep climbing height low and make sure any furnishings are stable and cannot topple.

Habitat essentials: substrate, hides, and ventilation

Substrate: choose stable, clean, pesticide-free material

Skip “whatever’s in the backyard”. Outdoor soil can carry pesticides, moulds, mites, and other contaminants that are harmless to us but risky in a closed tank.⁷

For many species, a simple base works well:

• coconut fibre (coir)
• peat moss or peat-based mixes
• unfertilised topsoil (no pesticides or additives)

Depth depends on the spider’s natural behaviour. Burrowers need enough depth to dig a stable retreat; arboreal species can manage with a thinner layer, but still benefit from some moisture buffering in the lower levels.

Hides: one dark, snug retreat beats a busy tank

A spider that can retreat will usually settle. Provide a solid hide (cork bark, a half-log, or a stable piece of curved bark) and position it so the spider can choose deeper shade without being forced into constant exposure.

Ventilation: fresh air prevents the slow problems

Stale, wet enclosures encourage mould and mites. Cross-ventilation (vents on opposite sides) helps keep humidity usable without making the air swampy. When in doubt, improve airflow before you increase misting.

Temperature and humidity: avoid fixed numbers, copy the habitat

The original draft used narrow “one-size-fits-all” humidity and temperature targets. In reality, requirements vary widely by species and life stage.

As a general baseline, many commonly kept tarantulas do well at typical room temperatures around 21–26°C, with species-dependent humidity supported by ventilation and a water dish rather than constant spraying.^{7, 8}

• Arid/grassland species: mostly dry substrate, good airflow, constant access to water.⁸
• Tropical species: some moisture held in lower substrate layers, but still with strong cross-ventilation to prevent stagnant, wet air.⁸

Monitoring helps. A basic thermometer and hygrometer can catch slow drift—like a room that drops too cool overnight, or humidity that climbs when ventilation is too low.^{8, 9}

Lighting: keep it simple (and cool)

Most pet spiders do not need UVB lighting. Bright lights and heat lamps are more likely to dry the enclosure and stress the animal than to help it. Normal room light and a steady day/night rhythm is usually sufficient.⁸

Never place the enclosure in direct sun. Glass and plastic heat fast, and spiders can’t escape a sudden temperature spike.

Food and water: the quiet routine

Most pet spiders thrive on appropriately sized live insects (commonly crickets). Prey should be sized conservatively, especially for juveniles. Remove uneaten live insects after a reasonable window, particularly around moulting, when the spider is vulnerable.⁷

Water is not optional. Provide a shallow, stable water dish and keep it clean and filled. For small spiders, a bottle-cap sized dish is often used. Regular cleaning matters more than fancy filtration.^{7, 8}

Maintenance: what to do weekly (and what to leave alone)

Spiders do best with calm, predictable conditions. Maintenance is light, but consistent.

• Weekly: remove leftover prey, spot-clean waste, wipe obvious mess on the walls, rinse and refill the water dish.
• As needed: replace sections of substrate that become mouldy or foul. Full substrate changes are usually occasional, not constant, unless you’ve had a spill or a pest outbreak.
• Always: check lid security and vent condition. Most escapes happen during feeding and cleaning.

Common problems (and what they usually mean)

• Spider stays pressed against the lid or climbs constantly: enclosure may be too humid/stuffy, too hot, or lacking a usable hide.
• Mould patches: too wet with too little airflow; reduce misting, improve ventilation, remove affected substrate.
• Refusing food for weeks: can be normal (seasonal slow-down, pre-moult), but review temperature, hydration, and stressors first.
• Lethargy with shrivelled abdomen: dehydration risk; ensure water availability and appropriate humidity for the species, and review ventilation so moisture is usable rather than stagnant.

Final thoughts

A good spider enclosure looks almost understated: steady temperature, clean air, a dark retreat, safe substrate, and water always available. With that quiet structure in place, most of the “care” becomes observation—small adjustments made early, before problems turn into emergencies.

References

1. Queensland Government — Exempt, prohibited and species class listings (includes invertebrates, tarantulas)
2. Queensland Government — Licences to keep, use or display native animals
3. NSW Environment and Heritage — Maintain a native animal keeper licence (conditions, acquisition/disposal)
4. Service NSW — Apply for a native animal keeper licence
5. Western Australia DBCA — Fauna licences (overview and guidance)
6. South Australia Government — Animal licences and permits (native animals)
7. University of Kentucky Entomology — Pet tarantula basics (housing, substrate safety, feeding, water)
8. Tree of Life Exotic Pet Medical Center — Tarantula care (temperature, humidity approach, lighting)
9. Amateur Entomologists’ Society — Tarantula care sheet (heating and humidity guidance)