People usually land on a puppy feeding guide when something feels slightly urgent: the puppy is growing fast, the poo has changed, the food aisle is a blur of labels, or the ribs are either too easy (or too hard) to find. Get it right early and you support steady growth, strong bones, and a calmer gut. Get it wrong and you can create problems that are slow to undo.
Below is a practical way to feed a puppy day to day: what “complete and balanced” really means, how to choose a suitable diet, how often to feed, how to change foods without drama, and the common hazards to keep off the menu.
Nutritional needs of puppies
What growing bodies need
Puppies are building muscle, bone, skin, organs and a working immune system at the same time. That work needs a diet with enough energy and the right balance of protein, fat, vitamins and minerals, especially calcium and phosphorus for the skeleton.1, 2
The safest baseline is a commercial diet that’s labelled as complete and balanced for growth (or “all life stages”, if it explicitly includes growth). For large-breed puppies, the mineral balance matters even more, because excess calcium can be harmful during rapid growth.2, 3
Puppy food vs adult dog food
Puppy diets are formulated for growth: higher energy density and different nutrient targets than adult maintenance diets. Adult maintenance foods are not designed to support growth and can miss the mark for a developing pup, particularly in large and giant breeds.2, 3
Choosing the right food
Dry, wet, raw: what matters most
Dry and wet diets can both work well if they’re complete and balanced for growth. Dry food is usually more energy-dense (so you feed less volume), while wet food can be softer and smellier, which some puppies find easier at first.3
Raw and home-prepared diets can be harder to balance for growth without expert formulation. If you’re set on that path, it’s worth getting a recipe built by a veterinary nutritionist, because “almost right” can still be wrong for a growing skeleton.2
How to read a pet food label (without getting lost)
The ingredient list tells you what’s in the bag, but it doesn’t confirm the diet meets growth needs. Look for the statement that the food is complete and balanced, and that it’s intended for growth (or all life stages including growth).1, 4
Also consider:
- Life stage: “Growth” for puppies; for large breeds, make sure the product is appropriate for large-breed growth if needed.3, 4
- Manufacturer transparency: WSAVA recommends focusing on the company’s quality control and nutritional expertise, not just marketing claims on the front of the pack.1
- Feeding guide: treat it as a starting point, then adjust based on body condition and growth rate.
Feeding schedule and portions
How often to feed
Young puppies do better with smaller, frequent meals. A common rhythm is:
- Up to ~4 months: 4 meals a day
- ~4 to 6 months: 3 meals a day
- From ~6 months: 2 meals a day (many dogs stay on this for life)
These are guideposts, not rules carved into stone. Toy breeds may need smaller, more frequent meals for longer; some pups cope fine with fewer meals if total daily intake is appropriate.5
How much to feed (the part everyone worries about)
Start with the pack’s daily guide for your puppy’s current weight and age, then watch the puppy more than the numbers. You’re aiming for steady growth and a lean body shape, not a round belly and rapid gain.
Useful checks:
- Body condition: ribs should be easy to feel under a thin layer of tissue; you should see a waist from above.
- Weekly trend: weigh your puppy regularly (weekly at first). Sudden jumps or stalls are worth adjusting for.
- Treat maths: if treats are frequent, reduce meal size so total intake stays sensible.
If you’re unsure, take a photo from above and from the side and ask your vet nurse or vet to score body condition at the next visit.
Transitioning to new foods
A gentle changeover
Puppy guts notice change. When switching diets, mix the new food into the old over several days, increasing the new portion gradually. If stools loosen, slow the transition rather than pushing through.5
Signs a food isn’t agreeing with your puppy
A short-lived soft stool during a food change can happen. Ongoing problems are different. Keep an eye out for:
- persistent diarrhoea or vomiting
- itching, recurring ear irritation, or skin rashes
- poor weight gain or a dull coat despite eating well
These signs don’t automatically mean “allergy”, but they do mean it’s time to talk with your vet before you hop from food to food.
Common feeding mistakes (and how to avoid them)
Overfeeding, underfeeding, and the fast-growth trap
Overfeeding is easy with puppies because they’re busy, charming, and always acting hungry. But extra weight loads developing joints, and “rapid growth at any cost” isn’t the goal—especially for large breeds. Underfeeding has its own problems: poor growth, reduced muscle, and lower resilience during illness.3
Human foods that are risky or toxic
Some everyday foods are genuinely dangerous for dogs. Keep these out of reach (and don’t rely on “they only had a little”):
- Chocolate6, 7
- Grapes, raisins, sultanas and currants6, 7
- Onion, garlic and chives (including powders in sauces and seasonings)7
- Xylitol (a sweetener in some sugar-free gums, lollies and peanut butters)8
- Cooked bones (splintering and obstruction risk)7
If you suspect your puppy has eaten something toxic, call your vet urgently. In Australia, you can also contact the Animal Poisons Helpline (24/7).9
Special dietary considerations
Breed size changes the goalposts
Small-breed puppies often need more energy-dense food in smaller serves, while large- and giant-breed puppies benefit from controlled, steady growth and careful mineral balance. A “growth” diet that’s complete and balanced is the backbone; extra supplements are rarely helpful and can be harmful in large pups, particularly with calcium.2, 3
When health issues change the plan
Frequent diarrhoea, poor growth, repeated itching, or ongoing vomiting aren’t normal “puppy stuff”. They’re signs to bring your vet into the feeding conversation early, before habits and deficiencies settle in.
Monitoring your puppy’s growth
Simple tracking at home
Weigh your puppy regularly and record it. Growth should look like a smooth curve, not a staircase. Photos help too—taken from the same angle, in the same spot, every few weeks.
Adjusting diet as adulthood approaches
As your puppy nears adult size, energy needs ease off. Keep meals consistent, adjust quantities gradually, and shift to an adult diet when your vet advises it’s appropriate for your dog’s breed and maturity. Large and giant breeds may take longer to reach full skeletal maturity than small breeds.3
Quick myths worth dropping
- “The ingredient list tells me everything.” It doesn’t. Use the nutritional adequacy/life-stage statement and manufacturer transparency as your anchor points.1, 4
- “Puppies need extra calcium for strong bones.” Not if they’re already on a complete and balanced growth diet—extra calcium can be risky, especially for large-breed puppies.3
- “A bit of table food is harmless.” Some foods are toxic, and many others quietly unbalance a puppy diet over time.7
References
- World Small Animal Veterinary Association (WSAVA) – Global Nutrition Guidelines
- FEDIAF – Nutritional Guidelines for Complete and Complementary Pet Food for Cats and Dogs (tables for growth nutrients)
- Purina Institute – Feeding large and giant breed puppies (growth diets, calcium excess, maturity)
- AAFCO – Reading Labels (nutritional adequacy statements and “complete and balanced”)
- Vetwest Veterinary Clinics – Feeding your puppy (meal frequency and transitioning foods)
- RSPCA Pet Insurance – Foods to avoid feeding your dog
- Agriculture Victoria – Human foods to avoid for cats and dogs
- Animal Poisons Helpline – Xylitol and dogs (risks and urgency)
- Animal Poisons Helpline – 24/7 helpline for Australian pet owners
Veterinary Advisor, Veterinarian London Area, United Kingdom