Most people land here because their cat’s belly is rounding out, her nipples look pinker, and suddenly every choice feels weightier: food, flea treatment, where she sleeps, whether a vet visit is urgent. Pregnancy is usually straightforward in cats, but the small details matter—especially close to birth, when delays and stress can tip a normal labour into trouble.
Below is a clear, practical guide to pregnant cat care: how to confirm pregnancy, what to feed, how to set up a quiet nesting spot, what labour commonly looks like, and the warning signs that should send you straight to a vet.
Recognising pregnancy in cats
Early signs you might notice at home
In the first few weeks, changes can be subtle. Common early clues include:
- Nipples “pinking up” (more pink and slightly enlarged), often easiest to see in light-coloured cats.
- Appetite changes, sometimes up, sometimes briefly down.
- Quieter behaviour and more time sleeping, or occasional restlessness as she starts choosing safer resting places.
- Gradual abdominal enlargement as pregnancy progresses.
How pregnancy is confirmed
A veterinarian can confirm pregnancy and estimate timing using examination and imaging. Abdominal palpation can sometimes detect pregnancy around 3–4 weeks, and ultrasound is commonly used to confirm pregnancy and check fetal viability (often most useful around 25–35 days). Later in pregnancy, radiographs (X-rays) may be used to estimate kitten numbers and plan for delivery, typically after fetal skeletons are visible (often from around day 55).1
Cat pregnancy is relatively short—often around 60–65 days (about two months), though exact timing varies and is hard to predict if you don’t know mating dates.1
Before anything else: book a vet check
If pregnancy is possible, a vet visit early on is worth it. It gives you a chance to:
- Confirm pregnancy (and rule out look-alike problems such as uterine disease).
- Discuss parasite control that’s appropriate for pregnancy.
- Check her body condition and set a feeding plan you can actually follow.
- Work out what “normal” should look like for her in late pregnancy and during labour.
Setting up a calm, safe nesting space
Most queens prefer a warm, dim, quiet place where foot traffic is low and the air doesn’t move much. Offer a couple of nesting options well before her due window, then let her choose.
What works well
- A roomy box or covered crate with low entry (so she can step in easily later).
- Soft, washable bedding (old towels or fleece). Avoid loose threads.
- Gentle warmth in the room—newborn kittens cannot regulate body temperature well.
- Food, water and a litter tray nearby, without crowding the nest.
Supplies to have on hand (most won’t be used)
Most cats deliver without help. The point is quiet readiness, not hovering.
- Clean towels (for replacing soiled bedding).
- Disposable gloves and hand sanitiser.
- A small set of scales (daily kitten weights are useful if there’s any concern).
- Your vet clinic’s phone number and the nearest after-hours emergency vet.
Nutrition and feeding during pregnancy
What to feed
Pregnancy and lactation are high-energy phases. A reliable approach is to feed a complete, balanced kitten food (or a diet labelled for growth / all life stages) through pregnancy and while she is nursing, because these diets are formulated for higher energy and nutrient density.2, 6
When choosing any commercial food in Australia, look for diets that state they meet a recognised standard (for example AS 5812 or an equivalent international standard) and are labelled as complete and balanced, not “supplementary”.2
How to feed (small meals, easy access)
As her abdomen fills, large meals can be uncomfortable. Offer smaller meals more often, and keep fresh water available at all times. Once kittens arrive, many queens need to eat freely to keep up with milk production.3
Supplements: usually unnecessary
If she’s eating a complete, balanced life-stage diet, extra supplements are often redundant and can occasionally unbalance the diet. If you’re considering anything (including fish oil), check with your vet first.
Parasites and vaccinations during pregnancy
Parasite control matters because fleas and intestinal worms can affect the mother’s health and, indirectly, kitten growth. The key is to use products your veterinarian considers appropriate for pregnancy and the household you’re in.
Vaccination is more nuanced. If possible, avoid modified-live (attenuated/live) vaccines during pregnancy because of potential risk to the fetuses; your vet will advise based on disease risk, her vaccination history, and whether she lives in a higher-risk setting (such as shelter or multi-cat environments).4
Behaviour changes you may see
Pregnant cats often become more selective about where they rest. Some seek more contact; others become private. As birth approaches, many queens spend more time investigating cupboards, wardrobes and corners, then return repeatedly to the same spot as if checking it’s still safe.
Keep her world steady: minimise visitors, loud cleaning, renovations, and abrupt routine changes. Stress doesn’t “cause” labour problems on its own, but it can disrupt a queen’s ability to settle and progress normally.
Labour and delivery: what’s normal, what’s not
Timing: due dates are approximate
Without known mating dates, it’s difficult to be precise. Pregnancy is often around 60–65 days, and delivery timing can vary even when you do know breeding dates.1
Stages of labour (typical pattern)
Labour is usually described in stages:
- Stage I (early labour): can last 12–24 hours. Restlessness, nesting, hiding, reduced appetite, occasional vomiting or trembling may occur. Discharge can be clear.1
- Stage II (active delivery): visible abdominal effort and kittens are born. Kittens are often delivered less than 1–2 hours apart, though there can be variation.1
- Stage III: placenta delivery, often alternating with Stage II until the litter is finished.1
When to seek veterinary help urgently
Call your vet (or an emergency clinic) if any of the following happens:
- Strong, active straining with no kitten produced after about 1 hour.
- More than 2 hours pass between kittens and you believe more kittens remain.
- A kitten is visible but stuck, or the queen appears exhausted or collapses.
- Heavy bleeding, foul-smelling discharge, or obvious severe pain.
- You know she is beyond the expected window from a known mating date and she seems unwell.
When in doubt, call. A short phone conversation can prevent a long night from turning dangerous.
Postnatal care: the first hours and weeks
For the mother
Once kittens arrive, keep the room warm, quiet and predictable. Nursing demands a lot of energy, so she may need much more food than usual while lactating.3
Watch for red flags such as lethargy, refusal to eat, swollen painful mammary glands, or discharge that smells bad. A healthy queen should still look alert and interested in her kittens, even if she’s tired.
For the kittens
In the first day, the basics are warmth, nursing, and steady weight gain. Newborn kittens should nurse soon after birth so they can receive colostrum (the first milk), which contains protective antibodies.6
If you’re worried about a kitten, weigh them daily at the same time. A kitten that isn’t gaining weight or is consistently pushed away from the nipples needs veterinary advice promptly.
Weaning and rehoming timelines (Australia)
Kittens start showing interest in food before they’re truly weaned, and the transition can be gradual. Many authorities recommend letting kittens wean naturally and introducing solid food slowly while they continue to nurse, with weaning commonly occurring around 8 weeks (often a little later).3
In practice, many people begin offering small tastes of appropriate wet food earlier (around 4 weeks) as a gentle introduction, then increase as the kittens mature.5
Where possible, kittens should stay with their mother until at least 8 weeks of age for healthy development and social learning.7
Common questions (quick, practical answers)
Is it safe to pick up a pregnant cat?
Usually, gentle handling is fine if she tolerates it. Support her chest and hindquarters and avoid pressure on the abdomen. If she resists, let her go—late pregnancy is physically awkward.
Should I let her outside while pregnant?
It’s safer to keep her indoors. Late pregnancy reduces agility and increases risk (dogs, vehicles, fights), and newborn kittens do far better in a controlled, warm environment.
Should I “help” during the birth?
Most of the time, no. Quiet supervision is ideal. Intervene only if a kitten is clearly stuck, the queen is in trouble, or your veterinarian has advised you to do something specific.
Final thoughts
A pregnant cat doesn’t ask for much: steady food, quiet shelter, clean warmth, and a watchful human who knows when to step back—and when to call the vet. If you keep her environment calm and her nutrition solid, most queens move through pregnancy and birth with the same unshowy competence they bring to everything else.
References
- Merck Veterinary Manual (Cat Owners) — Management of Reproduction of Cats
- RSPCA Knowledgebase — What should I feed my kitten? (includes guidance on complete and balanced diets and standards such as AS 5812)
- RSPCA Knowledgebase — How do I care for newborn kittens and their mother?
- AAHA/AAFP Feline Vaccination Guidelines (FAQs) — Pregnancy and vaccination
- Cat Protection Society of NSW — Cat care factsheet (weaning from around 4 weeks, gradual transition)
- Purina Institute — Nutrition for pregnant and lactating cats and their nursing kittens (colostrum timing; weaning window)
- RSPCA Knowledgebase — How old should a kitten be before they are adopted/purchased?
- Merck Veterinary Manual (Professional) — Pregnancy determination in bitches and queens
Veterinary Advisor, Veterinarian London Area, United Kingdom