Pet Tarantula

Most people start looking into pet tarantulas when they’re weighing up a quiet, low-space animal that doesn’t demand daily attention—then they hit a wall of mixed advice about handling, humidity, feeding, bites, and whether keeping one is even legal where they live. The details matter, because a simple mistake (a fall from a hand, a damp enclosure, a feeder insect left in overnight) can injure a spider that otherwise would have lived for years.

Below is a clear, practical guide to pet tarantula care, written for real-world keeping. It sticks to what tends to hold true across common pet species, and flags where tarantulas differ (Old World vs New World, burrowers vs climbers). It also notes Australian legal realities for native spiders, where permits may apply.^{1, 2}

Pet tarantula snapshot (quick, reliable basics)

• Size: Varies widely by species; many “large” species sit around up to ~20 cm legspan.³
• Lifespan: Females often live many years (commonly a decade or more in some species); males usually live less time and may die not long after maturity/mating.^{1, 3, 4}
• Diet: Predatory; mostly insects and other invertebrates, with occasional small vertebrates in some large species (not a requirement in captivity).^{2, 3}
• Temperament: Often calm when left alone, but defensiveness is normal—especially if cornered, disturbed, or exposed during moulting.²
• Handling: Best kept to a minimum. The biggest risk is the spider falling and rupturing its abdomen, which can be fatal.⁵
• Common problems in captivity: Dehydration, poor ventilation with persistently damp substrate, and stress/injury from disturbance—especially around moulting.^{2, 5}

Choosing the right tarantula (what actually changes your experience)

Pet tarantulas are not one neat category. The species you choose affects speed, defensiveness, husbandry tolerance, and how visible the spider will be day to day. Before you buy, decide what you want to live with in the room: a calm burrow-dweller that rarely shows itself, or a more active spider that may be quicker and more reactive.

Start by matching the spider’s lifestyle

• Terrestrial burrowers: Spend much of their lives in web-lined burrows or retreats and may be most active at night. They need depth of substrate and a stable hide.^{1, 2}
• Arboreal climbers: Use vertical space, bark slabs, and elevated retreats. They are more prone to falls if the enclosure is set up poorly.

Old World vs New World (a safety and handling reality)

In the pet trade, “Old World” tarantulas (Africa/Asia/Europe) generally lack urticating hairs but can be faster and more defensive; “New World” tarantulas (the Americas) more often use urticating hairs as a deterrent. Regardless of origin, treat handling as an exception, not a routine activity.

Know what you’re committing to

Many tarantulas, especially females, are long-lived compared with other invertebrate pets. If you’re hoping for a short-term animal, a tarantula may be the wrong fit.⁴

Is it legal to keep a tarantula in Australia?

Rules vary by state and territory, and the line between “native” and “exotic” matters. In some jurisdictions, spiders are protected wildlife and may require permits to keep, and there can be restrictions on taking animals from the wild, as well as on buying/selling and moving them across borders.^{2, 6}

• Northern Territory: Spiders are protected; a permit is required to keep a spider, and there are permit requirements around taking from the wild and import/export.²
• Queensland: Keeping protected native animals can require a licence, and the licensing framework covers activities such as buying/selling and breeding; check the current “keeping native animals” rules for your exact species and situation.⁶

If you’re unsure, confirm with your local environment/wildlife authority before purchasing—especially if the seller is advertising “native” stock or interstate shipping.^{2, 6}

Setting up a tarantula habitat (the parts that matter most)

Good tarantula enclosures feel dull in the best possible way: stable temperature, appropriate humidity for the species, clean water available, and nowhere the spider can wedge itself into a gap and escape. The goal is to mimic the spider’s normal microhabitat rather than chase exact numbers.

Enclosure and security

• Seal the lid properly. Many spiders can climb and escape through surprisingly small gaps.²
• Ventilation matters. Stale, persistently damp enclosures encourage mould and other problems; aim for fresh airflow without drying the spider out.
• Avoid direct sun. A tank in sun can overheat quickly.²

Substrate and hiding places

Most tarantulas need a secure retreat. Burrowing species, in particular, do best with enough substrate to dig and reinforce a hide. In the wild, Australian tarantulas spend much of their lives in burrows, using silk-lined chambers and entrances that can be plugged during harsh conditions.¹

Water and humidity

• Always provide a shallow water dish or similar safe water source.²
• Match humidity to species rather than guessing. Some tarantulas prefer drier conditions with a water dish; others need higher humidity with excellent ventilation.

Feeding your tarantula (simple, steady, and species-appropriate)

Tarantulas are predators. In captivity, they do well on appropriately sized insects bought from reputable suppliers, or collected only where you can be confident there’s no pesticide exposure.²

What to feed

• Crickets, roaches, moths and other suitably sized insects are standard feeder options.²

How often to feed

Many spiders are fed once or twice a week, adjusted for size, age, species, and season. A tarantula that refuses food isn’t automatically “sick”; it may be settling in, or preparing to moult.^{2, 5}

Feeder size and safety

Over-large prey can injure a spider, and live insects left in the enclosure can attack a tarantula during moulting when it is soft and vulnerable. If your tarantula goes off food and becomes more secretive, treat moulting as a real possibility and remove uneaten live feeders.⁵

Moulting and limb regrowth (what’s normal, what’s risky)

Moulting (ecdysis) is when a tarantula sheds its old exoskeleton to grow. Many tarantulas will stop eating for a period before moulting, then take time afterwards before feeding normally again. During this window, disturbance is a hazard: the spider’s body is softer, coordination is different, and injury risk rises sharply.⁵

Tarantulas can also regrow lost limbs over subsequent moults, particularly when younger. Regrowth is slow and not something to rely on as “proof” an injury is minor, but it is a real part of their biology.¹

Handling a tarantula safely (and why “less” is usually best)

Handling is where most preventable disasters happen. A startled tarantula can bolt, and even a short fall can split the abdomen. For many keepers, the safest routine is hands-off: observe, feed, water, clean, and leave the spider to its own steady rhythms.⁵

• Handle only when necessary (for rehousing, essential maintenance, or veterinary-style intervention).²
• Work low over a soft surface to reduce fall risk.
• Move slowly and avoid cornering the spider. Defensive behaviour is often a response to threat and vibration rather than “aggression”.²
• Wash hands before any contact. Spiders can be vulnerable to infections, and you also reduce the chance of contaminating the enclosure.²

Common health issues (and what to check first)

When a tarantula looks “unwell”, the cause is often husbandry: ventilation, moisture, temperature swings, or stress from disturbance. Correcting the environment gently is usually the first step.

Dehydration

Provide clean water consistently and review humidity for the species. A stable enclosure in a warm, shaded area (not sun) helps avoid rapid drying and overheating.²

Mites and mould problems

These are often linked to persistently damp, poorly ventilated setups and uneaten food. Improve ventilation, remove leftovers, and keep the enclosure clean without over-wetting it.

Injury from falls

This is one of the clearest reasons to avoid casual handling. A tarantula can appear fine, then deteriorate rapidly after abdominal injury.

Breeding tarantulas: pause before you start

Breeding is not a casual add-on. It involves sexing, pairing risk, managing egg sacs/spiderlings, and, in Australia, may be regulated depending on the species and your location. Some licensing frameworks explicitly address breeding and trading conditions, so check the rules before you attempt it.⁶

What to do if you’re bitten

Most spider bites are minor, but Australia has medically significant spiders, and first aid depends on the suspected species. If there are symptoms, or if you’re unsure what bit you, get medical advice promptly.

• Funnel-web (and similar high-risk bites): Pressure bandage with immobilisation is recommended, and urgent medical care is needed.^{7, 8, 9}
• Redback bites: Pressure immobilisation is generally not recommended because it can worsen pain; seek medical advice if concerned or symptoms develop.⁷

If you keep spiders at home, it’s worth reading an Australian clinical first-aid guide once, calmly, before you ever need it.^{7, 8}

Final thoughts

A pet tarantula is less a companion than a small, watchful predator living by its own timetable—feeding when conditions suit, hiding when it chooses, growing in quiet increments through moults. If you can provide a stable enclosure, resist the urge to handle, and keep your care routine simple and consistent, tarantula keeping is often straightforward. The spider does the rest.

References

1. Australian Museum — Australian tarantulas (life history, burrows, lifespan)
2. Northern Territory Government — Keeping spiders as pets (housing, feeding, handling, permits)
3. Australian Geographic — Fact file: Australian tarantula (size and lifespan overview)
4. Australian Museum — Ask an expert: Spider lifespan
5. Minibeast Wildlife — Bug keeping FAQs (handling risk, falls, moulting and feeding precautions)
6. Queensland Government — Licences to keep, use or display native animals (licensing framework)
7. NSW Agency for Clinical Innovation (Emergency Care Institute) — Snake and spider bite clinical tool
8. healthdirect — Spider bites (symptoms, first aid, pressure immobilisation guidance)
9. Sydney Children’s Hospitals Network — Spider bites factsheet (pressure bandage guidance)