Pet Spider Risks and how to avoid them

People usually start looking into pet spiders for one of two reasons: they’ve found themselves fascinated by an eight‑legged tenant in the house, or they’re thinking about buying a captive spider and want to know what can go wrong.

The risks are real but mostly predictable: a painful bite from the wrong species, an escaped spider that becomes a household hazard, and legal trouble if the animal is kept or traded without the right approvals. The safest approach is slow and practical—choose an appropriate species, keep handling to a minimum, build an escape‑proof enclosure, and know the correct first aid before anything happens.^{1, 2}

Reality check: “health risks” from pet spiders

Most of the everyday health risk with spiders isn’t infectious disease. It’s injury (to you or the spider), allergy, and bite management.

Claims that pet spiders commonly spread Salmonella, E. coli or Cryptosporidium to humans are usually borrowed from reptile/animal‑handling advice and don’t reflect how spiders are typically kept. That said, any enclosure can accumulate mould, mites, rotting feeder insects, and bacteria if it’s neglected—and dirty hands can move germs into mouths, eyes, or food.

Low‑drama hygiene that makes a difference

• Wash hands after touching the enclosure, substrate, water dishes, or feeder insects.
• Keep spider food (feeder insects) and their containers away from kitchens and eating areas.
• Spot‑clean promptly (dead prey, mouldy substrate), then do periodic full cleans without harsh fumes.
• Avoid cleaning sprays or insecticides in or near the enclosure—spiders are sensitive to residues.

Bites and venom: what matters in Australia

Most spider bites are minor, and many suspected “spider bites” turn out to be something else. But Australia does have medically important species, and the first aid differs depending on the spider involved.^{1, 3}

Which spiders are the serious ones?

For severe envenomation risk, the main concern is the Sydney funnel‑web and close relatives, and mouse spiders—these are the cases where pressure‑immobilisation is used and urgent treatment matters.^{1, 2}

Redback bites can cause significant pain and systemic symptoms, especially in children, but the recommended first aid is different: pressure‑immobilisation is not used for redback bites because it can worsen pain and it doesn’t help in the same way.^{1, 5, 6}

“White‑tailed spider” bites are often discussed online in alarming terms. If symptoms are concerning or worsening, treat it as a medical issue—but don’t assume every painful or ulcerating skin lesion is a spider bite. The safest habit is to seek medical advice when symptoms progress or you can’t confidently identify what happened.³

First aid, in plain language

• Suspected funnel‑web or mouse spider bite: apply a pressure‑immobilisation bandage and splint the limb, keep the person still, and call an ambulance.^{1, 2, 3}
• Suspected redback bite: do not use pressure‑immobilisation; use a cold pack for pain and seek medical advice, especially for children or severe pain.^{1, 5, 6}
• Any bite with severe symptoms (breathing difficulty, collapse, rapidly spreading pain, vomiting, heavy sweating, severe headache, or a child who looks unwell): get urgent medical help.³

Safe handling: less contact is the skill

Most “pet spider” incidents happen during handling. A spider doesn’t need to be held to be well kept, and frequent handling increases the chance of bites, drops, and escapes.

Use a container transfer, not your hands

• Use a clear cup/tub and a stiff card to guide the spider in and cover the opening.
• Keep movements slow and the room closed (doors shut, gaps blocked) before you open the enclosure.
• Plan the transfer first—new enclosure open and ready, lid within reach, no pets underfoot.
• If you must use tools, use soft brushes or long forceps carefully; avoid pinning legs or abdomen.

If you’re trying to capture a spider for identification after a bite, the jar-and-card method is recommended by Australian experts—only if it’s safe to do so.¹

Choosing a species: “safe” starts with “appropriate”

In Australia, the safest “pet spider” choice is usually a species that is legally sourced, not medically significant, and tolerant of a stable enclosure without handling.

Avoid keeping (or attempting to keep) spiders with high medical risk, such as funnel‑webs and mouse spiders. If you can’t reliably identify the spider—or you bought it from someone who couldn’t tell you exactly what it is—treat that as a red flag, not a mystery to solve later.^{1, 3}

Housing and environment: prevent escapes, prevent stress

A good spider enclosure is simple and tight. The goal is an escape‑proof, stable micro‑habitat that matches the species—burrowers need depth and structure; web‑builders need anchor points; wandering hunters need floor space and hides.

Enclosure essentials

• Secure lid and ventilation: fine mesh or drilled vents that a small spider can’t squeeze through.
• Stable placement: out of direct sun, away from heaters and draughts, away from vibration.
• Hides and substrate: enough cover that the spider can retreat; keep substrate appropriate for humidity needs.
• Routine checks: latches, mesh corners, and cable holes are where escapes start.

If the spider gets out (or you suspect more than one)

Escapes happen quietly. A lid left ajar, a warped plastic corner, a feeding hatch not clipped down. If a spider is missing, treat it as an immediate safety task.

Quick containment steps

• Close the room. Block the gap under doors with a towel.
• Remove clutter from the floor and along walls, then check dark edges: behind furniture, under skirting, inside shoes.
• Use a torch at a low angle to pick up silk lines and movement.
• If you find it, use a container capture (cup + card). Don’t grab.

If you are seeing repeated webs, egg sacs, and multiple spiders across rooms, it may be a broader household issue rather than a single escaped animal. Physical removal and sealing entry points is the first line; chemical treatments should be used cautiously and according to label directions, especially if you have a pet invertebrate that could be affected by drift or residues.

Legal restrictions in Australia: permits and “exotic pets”

Spider keeping rules vary by state and territory, and the category can be confusing (wildlife, invertebrates, protected animals). Before buying or swapping spiders, check your local wildlife authority and licensing requirements.

In Queensland, the government sets out a licensing framework for keeping protected native animals, and the licence conditions differ by what you keep and what you intend to do with it (keeping, breeding, trading, display). Their advice explicitly covers protected spiders and scorpions under certain licence types.⁴

In New South Wales, native animal keeper licensing applies to many native species and requires you to use the official species list and comply with licence conditions, including record‑keeping. Requirements and eligibility vary by licence class and animal group.⁷

Importing live “pet” spiders from overseas is also a separate legal problem. Australian Government biosecurity advice states that importing terrestrial invertebrates as pets (including spiders) is not permitted; imports of live invertebrates are generally limited to research or other tightly controlled purposes, and require permits assessed case‑by‑case.^{8, 9}

Children and other pets: simple boundaries

A spider enclosure should be treated like a fish tank with a locked lid: look, don’t touch.

• Keep the enclosure out of reach, ideally in a room that can be closed.
• Never allow unsupervised handling, even with “docile” species.
• Keep cats and dogs away from the enclosure—pawing, knocking, and curiosity can create bites and escapes.
• Store feeder insects securely; loose crickets become a household nuisance quickly.

Final thoughts

A pet spider is mostly a lesson in quiet husbandry: steady temperature, clean corners, minimal interference. The risks shrink when the spider stays in its enclosure, the enclosure stays shut, and everyone in the house knows what to do if a bite or escape occurs.^{1, 3}

References

1. Australian Museum — Spider bites and venoms (first aid and pressure‑immobilisation guidance)
2. healthdirect — Spider bites: symptoms and first aid
3. healthdirect — When to seek medical advice for spider bites
4. Queensland Government — Licences to keep, use or display native animals (includes spiders/scorpions licensing notes)
5. Royal Children’s Hospital Melbourne — Clinical practice guideline: Redback spider bite
6. HealthyWA (Perth Children’s Hospital) — Spider bite guideline (pressure immobilisation not recommended for redback)
7. NSW Environment & Heritage — Apply for a native animal keeper licence
8. Australian Government Department of Agriculture, Fisheries and Forestry — Unique or exotic pets (invertebrates as pets not permitted to be imported)
9. Australian Government Department of Agriculture, Fisheries and Forestry — Importing live invertebrate animals (permit and purpose restrictions)