Pet Spider Food

Most people end up searching for “pet spider food” when a new spider is settling in and the questions turn practical: what can it eat, how often, and what’s actually safe to leave in the enclosure. Get it wrong and the risks are quiet but real—dehydration, mould, a stressed spider, or a live feeder insect left behind during a moult.

For most pet spiders kept in Australia (especially tarantulas), the answer is simple: a steady supply of appropriately sized live insects, clean water always available, and a feeding routine that changes with age, season, and moulting.

What pet spiders eat (and what they don’t)

Most commonly kept pet spiders are obligate predators. Tarantulas, in particular, hunt and scavenge animal prey rather than eating plant matter.^{1, 2}

In the wild, tarantulas mostly take insects and other small animals (and only rarely “birds”, despite the nickname).¹

Staple feeder insects

Good everyday options are commercially bred feeder insects, matched to the spider’s size and hunting style:

• Crickets
• Roaches (where available and legal in your area)
• Mealworms, superworms, and other beetle larvae (use as variety, not the only feeder)
• Waxworms (very fatty—best as an occasional change)

Many keepers “gut-load” feeder insects (feed them well for 24–48 hours) so the spider benefits from the prey’s nutrients.⁴

Fruit and vegetables: usually unnecessary

Fresh fruit and vegetables are not a normal part of most pet spider diets, and they spoil quickly in warm, humid enclosures. If you want to offer variety, focus on improving feeder quality (gut-loading) rather than leaving produce in the enclosure.⁴

Avoid wild-caught insects

Wild insects can carry pesticide residues and parasites. Stick to purpose-bred feeders whenever you can.^{3, 4}

How often to feed: a calm, realistic schedule

Feeding frequency depends on species, temperature, and life stage. As a broad guide for tarantulas:

• Spiderlings: small feeds several times per week (often every other day)
• Adults: typically every 7–14 days

Skipping meals can be normal, especially around moulting.^{3, 5}

Let the spider’s body condition guide you

Rather than counting meals, watch the abdomen (opisthosoma). A healthy abdomen is rounded but not ballooned. If it looks overly swollen, ease back; if it looks noticeably small or wrinkled, prioritise water first, then offer food.⁶

Prey size: the quiet safety rule

Choose prey that’s safely manageable—generally no larger than the spider’s body length, and often smaller for young spiders. Oversized prey can stress or injure a spider, especially if the spider is in pre-moult or simply not interested.³

Water matters more than most people expect

Tarantulas can cope with missed meals better than missed water. Provide clean water at all times in a shallow dish, and keep it fresh.⁵

If you’re using small live feeders like crickets, adding a few small pebbles to the water dish can reduce drowning and mess, while still letting the spider drink.³

How to feed your pet spider (step-by-step)

1. Pick a feeder insect that’s the right size and in good condition (active, not dying).
2. Offer one prey item at a time, especially for spiderlings and cautious species.
3. Observe briefly. Many spiders feed at night; an immediate strike isn’t required for the feed to be “successful”.
4. Remove uneaten live prey within 24 hours to reduce stress, prevent bites to a resting spider, and keep the enclosure cleaner.³
5. Remove leftovers (legs, wings, husks) before they mould or attract mites.

Moulting: when to stop feeding

Moulting is when a spider sheds its exoskeleton. During this period it may refuse food for days or weeks. The key husbandry move is simple: remove all live prey if your spider is in pre-moult or has started moulting, because a feeder insect can damage a vulnerable spider.⁵

After a moult, wait before feeding again so the fangs and new exoskeleton can harden. A common guideline is around 7–10 days for many tarantulas, longer for very small spiderlings or large individuals.⁵

Supplements: when they help (and when they don’t)

For most pet spiders, routine calcium/vitamin dusting is not essential in the way it is for many reptiles. Better results usually come from:

• using a variety of feeder insects
• gut-loading feeders properly
• keeping water available and the enclosure clean

If you’re concerned about a specific species, growth stage, or an ongoing refusal to feed, it’s worth seeking species-specific husbandry advice from a reputable arachnid organisation or an exotics vet.

Common feeding mistakes (and what to do instead)

• Leaving crickets in “overnight”: remove uneaten live prey within 24 hours, especially if the spider is hiding or approaching a moult.^{3, 5}
• Feeding wild-caught insects: use captive-bred feeders to reduce pesticide and parasite risk.^{3, 4}
• Offering prey that’s too large: size down; smaller prey is safer and still nutritious.³
• Trying to “fix” a hunger strike with more food: check water, temperature, and signs of pre-moult first; many healthy adults skip meals naturally.^{3, 5}
• Using fruit and veg as a main diet: focus on feeder quality (gut-loading) rather than leaving produce to spoil.⁴

Keeping feeder insects fresh and safe

Healthy feeders make for safer feeding. Keep insects in clean, well-ventilated containers, feed them a decent diet (gut-loading), and avoid exposing them to sprays, fumes, or cleaning products. Buy only what you’ll use in a reasonable time, and discard any feeders that look unwell.

Final thoughts

Pet spider food is less about “recipes” and more about rhythm: live prey that’s the right size, offered at sensible intervals, with water always available and the enclosure kept clean. Most spiders thrive on that quiet consistency—and they tell you what’s working by how they moult, rest, and feed over time.

References

1. Australian Museum — Australian tarantulas (diet and behaviour)
2. U.S. National Park Service — Invertebrates (tarantula diet notes)
3. Carolina Biological Supply — Tarantula care guide (feeding frequency, removing uneaten prey, water)
4. PetSmart — Scorpion and tarantula digital care guide (gut-loading; avoid wild-caught insects)
5. Amateur Entomologists’ Society — Tarantula care sheet (water importance; moulting and feeding timing)
6. Dial A Vet — Tips to care for a pet tarantula (body condition and feeding basics)