People usually start searching “pet rat colouring” for one of two reasons: they’re trying to identify what colour and markings their rat actually is, or they’re choosing a new rat and want to understand what those names (agouti, hooded, Berkshire, blue) mean in real life. Getting it right matters, because coat “colour” can describe very different things—base colour, pattern, and even eye colour—and mixing them up can lead to disappointment, accidental breeding surprises, or poor assumptions about temperament.
Below is a clear, grounded guide to common pet rat colours and markings, a plain-English look at how inheritance works, and the care that keeps a coat healthy (without over-bathing or chasing colour changes that diet can’t truly deliver).
Coat colour, markings, and what “colour” really means
In fancy rats, “colour” often gets used as a catch-all term. In practice, there are three separate features people notice first:
- Base colour (for example, agouti vs black-based colours such as black or blue).
- Markings (white patterning such as hooded or Berkshire).
- Eye colour (black, ruby, or pink), which can change the overall look dramatically.
A rat described as “blue hooded” is usually a blue base colour with a hooded marking pattern. A rat described as “agouti Berkshire” is an agouti base with Berkshire-style white. Breed names and pet shop labels don’t always keep these categories tidy, so it helps to separate them in your mind first.
Common pet rat base colours (and what they look like)
These are some of the base colours most often seen in pet rats. Names and availability vary by line and state, but the visual cues below hold steady.
Agouti (ticked)
Agouti is the classic “wild-type” look: each hair is banded, giving an overall warm brown coat with darker ticking. In Australian standards, agouti is described as rich chestnut brown with black guard hairs and a darker undercoat, with a lighter belly.1
Black (self)
Black rats are “self” coloured: the coat is one solid shade without ticking. A good black is dark down to the skin rather than looking brownish or rusty, though sunlight and age can soften the tone over time.5
Blue (dilute black)
“Blue” in rats is a slate-grey dilution of black, usually even through the coat rather than ticked like agouti. It’s one of the more common dilutes in pet lines and can look anything from deep steel to softer grey depending on modifiers.4, 5
Cinnamon, fawn, and other warm tones
Warm-toned colours can be confusing because similar-looking rats may be produced by different combinations of genes. In Australian show standards, for example, cinnamon and fawn are distinct ticked colours with specific expectations for undercoat and guard hairs.1
Albino (pink-eyed white)
Albino rats aren’t a “white colour” in the usual sense. Albinism masks the underlying colour and markings, producing a white coat with pink eyes even if the rat genetically carries other colours or patterns.4, 6
Common markings (white patterning)
Markings sit on top of the base colour. Two rats can share the same marking name but look very different because their base colours differ.
Hooded
Hooded rats typically have colour over the head and shoulders, plus a stripe running along the spine, with the rest of the body mostly white (extent varies by line). In show definitions, faults often include a broken or uneven stripe.2
Berkshire
Berkshire usually means a coloured back with a white belly and white feet, often with additional preferred features depending on the standard (such as white extending up the legs). It’s common in pet lines and often used as a general label for “white tummy” rats.2, 7
Other marking names you may hear
Depending on breeder, registry, and state, you may also see terms such as Irish, blaze, capped, bareback, variegated, and downunder. These names describe where the white sits and how clean the edges are, rather than creating a different “breed”.2, 7
Understanding colour inheritance (without needing a genetics degree)
Rat colour inheritance is real genetics, but you don’t need to memorise letter codes to use it sensibly. The simplest way to think about it is:
- Some genes are recessive and only show when a rat inherits two copies (one from each parent). Classic examples include black-based colour (often described as recessive to agouti) and albinism masking colour.4, 5
- Some genes dilute or modify an existing base colour (for example, turning black into blue).4, 5
- Markings are inherited separately from base colour, and the same marking name can involve more than one genetic route in different lines. That’s part of why pet shop labels can be inconsistent.7
If you’re choosing rats with breeding in mind, work with a breeder who tracks lineage and uses recognised standards and genetic references. For pet homes, it’s usually enough to identify “base colour + marking” accurately.
Popular “breeds”: what’s real, what’s just a look
In everyday pet talk, “breed” often means a visible type rather than a distinct breed in the dog sense.
- “Fancy rat” usually just means a domesticated pet rat (Rattus norvegicus) in many possible colours and markings.
- Dumbo refers to ear placement and shape (larger, lower-set ears), not coat colour.
- Hairless refers to coat type. It’s striking, but it also changes day-to-day care needs, especially around warmth and skin health.
Temperament is shaped far more by handling, social housing, and breeding for stable behaviour than by coat colour. Be wary of claims that “black rats are always outgoing” or “white rats are timid”; those stereotypes don’t hold up as reliable selection tools.
Choosing a rat: colour is fine to love, but don’t let it lead
When colour matters to you (and it’s allowed to), keep it in proportion. The most practical approach is to pick for health and behaviour first, then colour.
- Watch breathing at rest: persistent clicking, wheezing, or laboured breathing is a red flag in any colour.
- Look at the coat and skin: patchy hair loss, heavy scurf, or sores suggest parasites or illness.
- Choose social confidence: a well-socialised rat usually approaches, sniffs, and settles with gentle handling.
If you’re choosing between two equally healthy, well-handled rats, then yes—pick the one whose markings make you stop and look twice. You’ll be staring at that coat for years.
Coat care: keeping it clean without overdoing it
Rats are fastidious groomers. Most healthy rats do not need routine bathing, and frequent washing can cause stress and interfere with their scent-based social life.8
When a wash is actually appropriate
- They’re elderly or unwell and can’t groom properly.8
- They’ve gotten something on their coat that you don’t want them ingesting during grooming.8
- A vet has recommended bathing as part of treatment.
If you must wash a rat
Use warm water and aim for a gentle sponge bath rather than immersing them. If shampoo is needed, keep it mild and unscented, rinse thoroughly, and return them only once they’re fully dry.8
Diet and coat colour: what food can (and can’t) change
A good diet supports healthy skin and coat condition—shine, softness, and normal moulting. It does not reliably “boost” a genetically fixed colour in the way some pet myths suggest. Carotenoid-rich foods (such as carrot) can contribute pigments in some species, but in rats the coat colour you see is primarily determined by genetics, with health, age, and sunlight affecting how vibrant it appears over time.
If a coat looks dull, the most common causes are mundane: poor diet quality, chronic stress, parasites, or illness. Treat the basics first before chasing colour hacks.
Health notes sometimes linked with coat colour (handled carefully)
Be sceptical of sweeping claims that certain markings or colours “cause” specific diseases. Most pet-rat health issues—especially respiratory disease—are not driven by coat pattern. What does have some evidence behind it is that albinism affects the eyes and light handling in many animals, including rats.
Albino rats and light sensitivity
Research in rats shows differences in visual system responses between albino and pigmented animals, and albino rat retinas are widely noted as more susceptible to light-induced damage under experimental conditions.9, 10
In a pet setting, this is less about catastrophe and more about sensible husbandry: provide shaded areas, avoid harsh constant lighting, and let rats choose where to rest.
Final thoughts
Pet rat “colouring” is best understood as a map of base colour, markings, and eye colour, all inherited in overlapping ways. Learn the names, enjoy the variety, then keep your attention on the quiet signals that matter more: good breathing, bright curiosity, and a clean, well-managed home. The coat will follow.
References
- NSW Fancy Rodent Society (NFRS) – Rat show standards (colours and definitions)
- Dazzle Rats Rattery – Rat markings and colours (Australian fancy rat markings guide)
- American Fancy Rat & Mouse Association (AFRMA) – Fancy rat genes: genetic code listing
- AFRMA – Fancy rat genes: black-based colours
- RatsPacNW – Rat standards: non-agouti (black-based) colours
- AFRMA – Fancy rat genes: marked rats (markings and notes)
- Telos Exotics – Fancy rat colours, patterns, and coat types (overview and naming variability)
- RSPCA Australia Knowledgebase – How should I groom my rats? (washing and handling advice)
- PubMed – Light response differences in the superior colliculus of albino and pigmented rats
- PubMed – Retinal damage in pigmented and albino rats exposed to cyclic light (photoreceptor damage)
Veterinary Advisor, Veterinarian London Area, United Kingdom