Pet Rat Coat Types

People usually start looking up rat coat types when they’re choosing a new pet, comparing litters, or trying to work out why a rat’s fur feels unusual, looks patchy, or needs different care. Coat type matters because it affects grooming, skin health, warmth, and what’s “normal” as a rat grows and moults.

Below is a plain-language guide to the common pet rat coat varieties you’re likely to encounter, what they look and feel like, and the care points that actually change day to day.

Pet rat coat types: what “coat” really means

In rats, “coat type” usually refers to the structure of the fur (straight, wavy, curly, satin-sheened, or largely absent), not the colour or markings. It’s also separate from body traits like ear type. For example, “dumbo” describes ear placement, not fur.

Most healthy rats keep themselves clean through constant grooming. When a rat looks unkempt, the cause is often environment, age, illness, parasites, or unsuitable bedding rather than the coat type itself.¹

Standard (smooth) coat

A standard coat is short, straight and fairly even over the body. It can be any colour or marking. Compared with some specialty coats, it’s usually the easiest to live with: it sheds, but it doesn’t tend to tangle, and it generally stays neat with normal cage hygiene.

Care notes

• Routine bathing isn’t usually needed. If cleaning is necessary, warm water and a gentle “spot clean” approach is preferred over frequent full baths.^{1, 2}
• A brief weekly check (skin, shoulders, rump, under the chin) catches early irritation, scabs, or lice/mites before they become a bigger problem.

Rex coat

Rex rats have curly or wavy fur and characteristically curled whiskers (vibrissae). The coat is meant to be evenly dense, though it can look less curly after a juvenile moult, and some Rex coats thin with age.^{3, 4}

Care notes

• “Low maintenance” doesn’t mean “no maintenance”. Rex coats can trap bedding dust and urine residue, so good ventilation, low-dust litter, and regular cage cleaning matter more than brushing.
• Avoid over-bathing. Too much washing can dry the skin and make itchiness worse.^{1, 2}

Hairless and “double Rex” (patchy) coats

Truly hairless rats have very little coat and often a fine fuzz. A separate, common “nearly hairless” look is double Rex, where the coat is thin and can be patchy or change over time (sometimes called “patchwork” in casual conversation). This patchiness is a coat variety effect, not something created by stitching fur or using adhesives.⁵

Care notes

• Warmth matters. Without a full coat, these rats can struggle more with temperature swings, draughts, and cold cage surfaces.
• Skin is more exposed. Check for scratches, dry patches, and irritation from rough substrates. Choose soft nesting material and avoid sharp-edged hides.
• Bathing should be occasional and for a reason (sticky mess, medical direction, or an older rat that can’t groom). Gentle, minimal products; rinse thoroughly; dry fully before returning to the cage.^{1, 2}

Satin coat

Satin rats have a distinctive sheen, caused by a different hair structure that reflects light more clearly. The coat itself may still be short and straight (standard satin), or curly if the rat also carries Rex (satin Rex).⁶

Care notes

• The shine can make greasy or dusty areas look more obvious. Good cage hygiene usually fixes this more effectively than bathing.
• If the skin looks flaky or the coat looks “dull” suddenly, think health check: parasites, poor diet balance, stress, or underlying illness can show up in the coat.

Dumbo: ear type, not coat type

“Dumbo” refers to ears that are larger and set lower on the sides of the head. A dumbo rat can have a standard, Rex, satin, hairless, or other coat variety. The ear type doesn’t reliably predict temperament, and it doesn’t remove the need for normal parasite checks and basic grooming care.⁷

Grooming and bathing: what’s actually recommended

Rats usually don’t need routine baths. When they do need help, it’s typically because they’re elderly, unwell, have soiled themselves, or have got into something that shouldn’t be licked off. Strong scents can also stress rats and affect how cage-mates respond to them, so unscented products and minimal washing are the safer approach.^{1, 2}

Practical, low-stress cleaning options

• Spot clean with a damp cloth for small messes.
• Sponge bath (warm water, shallow, no dunking) if more cleaning is needed.¹
• Only use mild, unscented shampoo when necessary, and rinse extremely well.¹
• Dry completely before returning to the enclosure to reduce chilling risk.²

When a “coat problem” is really a health problem

Coat type should look consistent for that variety. If something changes quickly, it’s worth treating it as a health clue rather than a grooming issue.

Seek veterinary advice if you notice

• Sudden bald patches in a normally furred rat (especially with scabs or constant scratching).
• Crusty skin, wounds that don’t settle, or widespread redness.
• Coat that becomes rough, spiky, or greasy alongside weight loss, lethargy, or breathing noise.
• Older rats that stop grooming (often pain, arthritis, or illness).¹

Final thoughts

Most coat types don’t need special products. They need the quiet basics: clean housing, low-dust bedding, stable warmth, and a regular “hands-on” check that notices small changes early. Once you know whether a rat is standard, Rex, satin, hairless, or patchy/double Rex, the rest is mostly observation and good husbandry.

References

1. RSPCA Knowledgebase: How should I groom my rats? (Updated 19 January 2024)
2. Animal Welfare League Queensland: Rats (care, grooming and bathing)
3. American Fancy Rat & Mouse Association (AFRMA): Rex Rats
4. Rat & Mouse Club of America (RMCA): Rat Standards – Rex
5. RatsPacNW Rat Fancier’s Club: Varieties (includes Double Rex and coat notes)
6. AFRMA: Satin Rats
7. RMCA Rat Standards: Rat Decoder Ring (general conformation and variety context)