Pet Rat Care

People usually start searching for pet rat care when they’re about to bring rats home (or they’ve already arrived) and the basics suddenly matter: the right cage, safe bedding, what to feed, and what “normal” looks like day to day. Small mistakes add up quickly with rats—poor ventilation, stale bedding, or a sugary diet can tip into illness before you’ve had time to learn their rhythms.^{1, 2, 3}

Below is a practical guide to housing, feeding, handling, and health checks, written for real homes. It focuses on what makes the biggest difference, what to avoid, and when to call a rat‑savvy vet.³

Before you start: rats do best in pairs (at least)

Rats are social animals and generally cope better with company of their own species. If you keep more than one, plan for introductions, a larger enclosure, and separate feeding stations so shy rats don’t miss out.^{4, 6}

To avoid surprise litters, don’t house males and females together unless you’ve arranged desexing with a veterinarian (and you understand the timelines). Rats can breed very quickly.^{1, 2}

Housing and cage requirements

Choose ventilation over “pretty” housing

A wire cage with good airflow is usually a better choice than fish tanks or enclosed plastic tubs, which trap heat and smells. Set the cage somewhere sheltered, out of direct sun and draughts, and away from heaters and air conditioners.^{2, 4}

Space, layout, and safety

Rats use space in three dimensions. A taller, multi-level enclosure with secure ramps, hammocks, and platforms tends to work better than a small box with a wheel.^{4, 5}

• Prioritise floor area and climbing structure (shelves, ropes, ladders) over decorative extras.⁵
• Keep wire spacing narrow so young or small rats can’t squeeze through.
• Avoid sharp edges and pinch points around doors and ramps; rats will test them with their noses and toes.³

Bedding and nesting materials

Use bedding that’s absorbent and low-dust. Recycled paper-based products and shredded paper are common, safe options. Avoid sawdust and strongly scented bedding, which can irritate airways.^{2, 6}

Add a hide (cardboard box, enclosed hut) and nesting material so they can retreat and sleep properly.^{2, 5}

Cleaning: keep the cage from “smelling like rats”

A rat enclosure shouldn’t reek. Smell usually means urine is building up, and that’s hard on their respiratory system over time. Aim for a routine that removes wet spots early, without stripping everything daily (constant full clean-outs can be stressful and encourage over-marking).^{2, 3}

• Spot-clean wet corners and soiled bedding frequently.
• Deep-clean the base, shelves, and washable items regularly, using a pet-safe cleaner and rinsing well.²
• Replace bedding as often as needed for your number of rats—more rats means faster moisture and ammonia build-up.²

Feeding and nutrition

The reliable base diet

The simplest, most consistent option is a good-quality commercial pellet or block made for rats. It reduces selective feeding (picking out favourite bits) and helps keep nutrition steady.^{6, 1}

Seed and grain mixes look natural, but many rats eat the tastiest pieces first and leave the rest. Over time, that can skew their diet toward higher fat and lower fibre.^{6, 9}

Fresh foods: small amounts, often

Supplement pellets with safe vegetables daily and fruit in smaller amounts. Introduce new foods slowly to avoid gut upsets, and keep rich treats occasional—rats gain weight easily.^{6, 1, 9}

• Vegetables: a small daily portion (think leafy greens and crunchy veg).^{6, 7}
• Fruit: treat-sized servings, not a daily staple.^{6, 1}

Water

Provide fresh water at all times and check bottles daily to ensure the ball bearing isn’t stuck. Some rats drink well from a heavy ceramic bowl, but bowls can be tipped or fouled—choose what stays cleanest in your cage.^{3, 6}

Exercise, enrichment, and out-of-cage time

Healthy rats move like they mean it: climbing, foraging, exploring, then folding into sleep. Enrichment isn’t decoration—it’s how they spend their waking hours.⁵

• Foraging: scatter part of their daily food through bedding, or tuck it into paper rolls and small boxes.²
• Climbing: ropes, hammocks, ladders, and stable shelves.⁵
• Chewing: untreated wood and safe chew items help manage continuously growing incisors.⁶

If you allow free-roam time, use a secure, rat-proofed area and supervise. Rats can squeeze into gaps you didn’t notice and chew soft plastics, cables, and foam with quiet efficiency.³

Health and wellness

Simple daily checks

Get to know what “normal” looks like for your rats: breathing, appetite, posture, coat condition, energy, and how they move around the cage. Subtle changes can be the earliest sign something’s wrong.^{3, 6}

Common warning signs include:

• reduced appetite or weight loss
• hunched posture or staying fluffed up
• discharge from eyes or nose
• limping, swellings, or wounds
• dullness or unusually quiet behaviour³

Vet care

Rats benefit from an initial health check after you get them, then routine check-ups at least yearly with a vet who is comfortable treating rats. Go sooner if you see breathing difficulty, persistent sneezing, blood, rapid weight loss, or any lump that appears to grow quickly.³

There are currently no routine vaccines for pet rats, so prevention mostly comes down to environment, hygiene, diet, and early treatment when symptoms appear.³

Heat stress and hot weather

Rats can struggle in heat. Keep the enclosure shaded and well ventilated, and monitor closely during hot spells. In Australia, once temperatures climb above about 30 °C, take extra care—move them to the coolest safe part of the house and offer cool surfaces (for example, a chilled water bottle wrapped so it isn’t wet and slippery).⁴

Grooming and hygiene

Most rats keep themselves clean. Bathing is rarely needed and can dry the skin and add stress. If a rat is dirty, a spot clean with a damp cloth is often enough, and it’s worth asking why they’re not grooming normally (illness, obesity, pain, or an unclean enclosure can all play a part).^{3, 4}

Nails usually only need trimming if they’re catching on fabric or curling; many rats wear them down naturally with climbing and textured surfaces. If you’re unsure, ask your vet to demonstrate safe technique.

Socialisation and training

Socialisation is mostly about predictable, gentle handling and letting rats approach at their own pace. Start with short sessions, low to the ground, offering a small treat as they step onto your hand. Avoid grabbing from above, which many rats find alarming.⁶

Rats learn readily with food rewards. Simple training—coming when called, stepping onto a hand, entering a carrier—makes daily care calmer and safer, especially when you need to check a wound or get to the vet.

Common behaviour concerns (and what often helps)

Nipping and biting

Biting isn’t “badness”. It’s often fear, pain, or confusion (especially if hands smell like food). Avoid sudden movements, don’t poke fingers through bars, and stop interactions that escalate. If biting appears suddenly in a previously calm rat, consider illness or injury and book a vet check.^{3, 6}

Cage defensiveness

Some rats become defensive in their enclosure, especially if they’ve had little handling or feel exposed. Add hides, increase enrichment, and approach slowly. Luring a rat out onto a sleeve or into a tunnel can be less confronting than reaching into their “home zone”.⁵

Final thoughts

Good rat care is quiet and consistent: clean air, fresh bedding, a balanced base diet, and a cage arranged like a small, busy landscape. When rats feel secure, their natural curiosity shows itself in short bursts—climb, sniff, stash, sleep—and you get to watch a small, intelligent animal settle into its world.^{4, 6}

References

1. Merck Veterinary Manual: Mice and rats as pets (rodents)
2. RSPCA NSW: How to care for your rat
3. Merck Veterinary Manual (Pet Owner Version): Routine health care of rats
4. Animal Welfare Victoria: Caring for pet rats and mice
5. Agriculture Victoria: Code of Practice (Laboratory rodents) — Behaviour and environmental enrichment
6. RSPCA Knowledgebase: How should I care for my rats?
7. NSW Department of Education: Animals in Schools — Rats (environment)
8. RSPCA Knowledgebase: Where should I keep my rats?
9. Vet Help Direct (AU): How do I look after my rat?