Pet Rat Cages

People usually start searching for a “good rat cage” after an escape, a sudden whiff of ammonia in the room, or that uneasy feeling that the setup is smaller (or flimsier) than it should be. The cage is the one piece of equipment your rats can’t choose for themselves, and small design mistakes tend to show up as injuries, respiratory irritation, boredom, or repeated cleaning battles.

What matters most is simple: safe bar spacing, strong ventilation, solid footing, and enough usable space to climb, nest, forage, and rest away from the toilet corner. The details below focus on practical checks you can do before you buy, and the setup choices that keep rats steady, curious, and hard to stress.

What a good rat cage needs (the non-negotiables)

• Escape-proof bar spacing: small enough that a young or slim rat can’t slip through, and not so wide that a rat can get stuck.^{1, 4}
• Excellent ventilation: wire-sided cages usually outperform tubs and solid-walled enclosures for airflow, which helps limit ammonia build-up from urine.^{1, 5}
• Solid floors and safe shelves: wire mesh floors can injure feet and legs; if your cage has wire shelves, cover them or swap for solid platforms.²
• Enough usable space: not just a big footprint, but multiple levels, room to stand, and places to retreat and sleep away from the loo area.^{3, 6}
• Easy cleaning access: wide doors, removable trays, and surfaces you can wipe quickly—because frequent cleaning only happens when it’s easy.^{1, 2}

Types of pet rat cages (and what to avoid)

Wire cages (most common, usually best)

A sturdy wire cage with a deep base is the usual “sweet spot”: strong ventilation, plenty of climbing opportunity, and straightforward cleaning—provided the bar spacing is appropriate and there are no sharp edges or gaps around doors.¹

Plastic tubs and solid-sided enclosures

Solid-sided setups can look tidy, but airflow is often the limiting factor. Poor ventilation allows ammonia to linger, which increases the risk of respiratory trouble and general stress. If you do use a tub-style enclosure, ventilation must be generous and well-designed, not just a small mesh panel in the lid.^{1, 2}

Wooden cages (not recommended)

Wood absorbs urine, holds odour, and is difficult to disinfect properly. It also invites chewing and splintering. Veterinary guidance is clear that wood is not suitable for rat housing for these reasons.²

How big should a rat cage be?

There isn’t one perfect number that fits every home setup, because rats use volume and vertical space in a way that simple “floor area per rat” doesn’t fully capture. The most useful approach is to aim for generous space, then check that the layout actually gives them room to move and rest comfortably.⁷

As a reference point, Australian minimum standards used for managed settings (rats in schools) specify:

• Floor space: at least 400 cm² per rat (under 450 g), and 800 cm² per rat (over 450 g)
• Minimum height: 25 cm
• Hiding/nesting area and environmental enrichment are required

Those are minimums, not targets, and most pet rats benefit from noticeably more space and a more complex, multi-level layout.^{6, 8}

A practical “useable space” check before you buy

• Can an adult rat stand upright somewhere without hunching?
• Is there room to run a few steps and then climb, not just shuffle between shelves?
• Can they sleep away from the toilet area (a separate hammock/box zone that stays clean)?⁷

Bar spacing, doors, and escape points

Bar spacing is the detail that turns a “big cage bargain” into an escape story. Australian welfare guidance recommends bar spacing no larger than 2.5 cm for adult rats (smaller for juveniles), while Australian rescue guidance commonly recommends around 1.25 cm or less, especially for young rats and smaller females.^{1, 4}

Also check the doors and corners: a cage can have safe bar spacing on the walls but a wider gap at the top panel, around hinges, or where a tray meets the frame.

Materials: what’s safe, what causes trouble

Metal (powder-coated) with a solid base

Metal cages are durable and generally easiest to keep sanitary, as long as you avoid rust, chipped coating, and sharp edges. Rats climb constantly, and small burrs become foot injuries surprisingly quickly.¹

Plastic components

Plastic trays and accessories are common, but keep an eye on chewing. Damaged plastic can create sharp edges, and any chewed corner that opens a gap becomes an escape route. Replace worn parts early rather than trying to “get a bit more life” out of them.¹

Wire floors and wide wire shelves

Avoid wire mesh or grid flooring. It can injure feet and legs, and it doesn’t stay clean in a way that matters to a rat’s lungs. If your cage includes wire shelves, cover them with solid material and ensure edges are secure.²

Setting up the cage (so it works like a habitat, not a box)

Rats do best when the cage has distinct “zones”: a dry nesting area, a toilet corner, and busy pathways for climbing and foraging. You’re aiming for calm movement through the space, not a single flat platform where everything happens in one place.⁶

Essentials to include

• At least one enclosed hide plus soft sleeping options (hammocks, nesting material)
• Multiple levels with safe ramps or climbing routes
• Chew items (untreated wood blocks are commonly used) to support dental wear and reduce cage-chewing
• Litter tray (many rats take to a consistent toilet spot)
• Foraging/enrichment (scatter feeding, cardboard, safe tunnels) to encourage natural exploration

Position the cage out of direct sun and drafts, in a place with steady airflow and stable temperature.⁵

Cleaning and odour: keeping ammonia down without over-scrubbing

A rat enclosure shouldn’t smell strong. A persistent ammonia odour is a ventilation and cleaning-frequency problem, not a “rats just stink” problem. Good ventilation and regular bedding changes reduce ammonia build-up, which matters because ammonia irritates the airways.^{1, 2}

A simple cleaning rhythm

• Daily: remove wet bedding patches, wipe obvious urine spots on shelves, remove any stashed fresh food, and refresh water.
• Weekly (or more often if needed): wash the base, shelves, litter tray, and heavily used accessories with hot water and a pet-safe disinfectant; replace bedding.

Veterinary guidance notes that cages should be cleaned at least weekly and bedding changed at least twice weekly in many setups, with the goal of preventing ammonia build-up from urine.²

Common mistakes when choosing a rat cage

• Buying by litres, not layout: a tall cage with poor access and awkward shelves can be harder to clean and less usable than a slightly smaller cage with wide doors and sensible levels.
• Ignoring bar spacing “just for now”: young rats and slim females can surprise you, and an escape can end badly in minutes.
• Using solid-walled enclosures for looks: airflow matters more than aesthetics for rat lungs.¹
• Leaving wire floors in place: they seem practical until you see sore feet.²
• Over-cleaning with harsh products: strong scents and residues can irritate airways; stick to pet-safe disinfectants and rinse well.

Final thoughts

A good rat cage is a quiet piece of engineering: narrow enough to hold them, open enough to breathe, and roomy enough to let a small animal be busy on its own terms. When the cage is right, the whole household feels it—less smell, fewer escapes, easier cleaning, and rats that spend more time climbing, nesting, and foraging instead of pacing at the door.^{1, 2}

References

1. RSPCA Australia Knowledgebase: Where should I keep my rats?
2. Merck Veterinary Manual (Pet Owner Version): Providing a Home for a Rat
3. RSPCA NSW: How to care for your rat
4. Australian Rat Fanciers Society (Victoria): Cages
5. Agriculture Victoria: Code of Practice (Climate control – ammonia and ventilation)
6. FOUR PAWS Australia: How to design a habitat for rats
7. National Research Council (2011): Guide for the Care and Use of Laboratory Animals (8th ed.), Chapter 4 (Environment, Housing, and Management)
8. NSW Department of Education: Animals in Schools – Rats (environment)