People usually start looking up pet jumping spiders for one of two reasons: they’ve found a small, bright-eyed spider at home and wonder if it can be kept safely, or they’re choosing a captive-bred jumper and want a simple care setup that won’t end in dehydration, mould, or a missing spider.
Jumping spiders (family Salticidae) are hardy little hunters when their enclosure is dry-fresh with pockets of humidity, their food is the right size, and handling stays gentle. Their eyesight is genuinely unusual among invertebrates, but the care basics are plain and practical.1, 2
Size: typically 2–25 mm (varies by species)
Lifespan: often around 1–2 years; some species and individuals may live longer (especially females)
Colour: varied (often brown, black, grey; some species are vividly patterned)
Temperament: alert, curious, mostly tolerant when left undisturbed
Activity level: diurnal (active by day)
Diet: live insects and other small invertebrates
Habitat: a secure, well-ventilated enclosure with vertical climbing surfaces and hides
Special needs: light misting and drinking opportunities without creating a constantly wet enclosure
Health issues: most problems are husbandry-related (dehydration, bad moults, mould/mites from poor ventilation or hygiene)
Grooming: none required
Jumping spiders, in plain terms
Jumping spiders are compact, day-active hunters found across Australia and much of the world. They don’t build capture webs like orb-weavers. Instead, they stalk and pounce, anchored by a fine safety line of silk as they go.1
They’re best known for their forward-facing “principal” eyes. Those eyes don’t just detect movement; they help the spider judge distance with surprising accuracy, using optical blur cues within the eye itself.2, 3
What they’re like to watch (and what they’re not)
A healthy jumper spends time perched high, scanning, then moving in quick, precise bursts. Many make a small silk retreat—often up near the top of the enclosure—used for resting and moulting.
They can look “engaged” because they orient toward movement, but it’s safer to describe this as attentive hunting behaviour rather than affection. They’re still small predators with simple needs: warmth, air, water, and appropriately sized prey.
Are they safe to handle?
Most jumping spiders are reluctant to bite, and bites are generally mild when they do happen. Still, any spider can bite if trapped or stressed, and anyone can have an allergic reaction to a bite.4
- Handle over a soft surface.
- Let the spider walk onto your hand; don’t pinch or grab.
- Keep sessions brief, especially around moulting time.
Choosing a species (Australia-specific reality check)
In Australia, the safest and simplest route is to obtain a captive-bred jumping spider from a reputable local breeder, or keep only what is legal in your state or territory. Avoid buying imported “exotics” online.
Australia’s federal biosecurity rules are strict: importing live invertebrates as pets isn’t permitted, including spiders, except under specific research or zoological conditions.5
What to look for in a healthy jumper
- Alert posture and coordinated movement.
- Clear eyes and clean legs (no visible mites).
- A steady feeding response (though appetite may drop before moulting).
- A secure enclosure that opens from the front/side, not straight down onto the spider’s retreat.
Housing: a small, vertical world with fresh air
Jumping spiders use height. Give them vertical surfaces, clutter to explore, and a calm top area where they can build a retreat. The most common enclosure mistake is chasing humidity by keeping everything wet. Humidity helps, but stale air and wet substrate invite mould.
Enclosure basics
- Secure lid and fine ventilation: small gaps are enough for a jumper to disappear.
- Cross-ventilation: vents on more than one side help prevent mould and bacterial build-up.
- Front/side opening: jumpers often web and rest near the top; top-opening enclosures frequently tear retreats.
- Furnishings: cork bark, twigs, and artificial foliage create climbing routes and hiding pockets.
Temperature and light
Most pet jumpers do well at steady indoor temperatures. Avoid hot windowsills and direct sun on the enclosure—small volumes overheat quickly. If you add heat, keep it gentle and allow a cooler area so the spider can choose its spot.
Water and humidity: enough to moult, not enough to rot
Jumping spiders dehydrate easily in very dry air, especially around moulting. At the same time, constantly wet enclosures can lead to mould and mites. Aim for a rhythm: light misting, then drying out with good airflow.
- Mist a wall lightly rather than soaking the substrate.
- Provide a small water droplet the spider can drink from (on a wall or leaf), refreshed regularly.
- Increase humidity slightly during pre-moult and moulting, while keeping ventilation strong.6
Feeding: prey size matters more than prey variety
Offer live prey that’s smaller than the spider’s body. Fruit flies suit tiny juveniles; small crickets or roaches can suit larger individuals. Overlarge prey can injure a spider, especially during or after moulting.
- Remove uneaten prey if the spider isn’t feeding (particularly around moulting).
- Feed less often as the spider approaches a moult; appetite often drops naturally.
- Keep feeders clean and, where appropriate, gut-load them so they’re more nutritious.
Moulting: the quiet, vulnerable phase
Moulting is when most losses happen in captivity, usually because conditions are too dry, too wet, or the spider is disturbed. A jumper may seal itself into its retreat and stay still for days. That’s normal.
- Don’t handle or “check” the spider inside its retreat.
- Keep water available (light misting to maintain humidity, without flooding the enclosure).
- After the moult, wait until the spider is moving confidently again before feeding larger prey.
Health issues you can prevent
Dehydration
Signs can include lethargy, poor coordination, and a shrunken abdomen. Offer drinking droplets and review ventilation and misting frequency. Don’t keep the enclosure soggy.
Mould and mites
Mould is usually a ventilation problem first, a cleaning problem second. Reduce organic material that stays wet, improve cross-ventilation, and replace any mouldy décor. If mites appear, quarantine the spider, clean or replace furnishings, and reassess moisture and feeder hygiene.
Breeding (only if you’re prepared)
Breeding jumping spiders can be straightforward for experienced keepers, but it quickly becomes a numbers game: egg sacs can produce many spiderlings, and they often need separation to prevent cannibalism as they grow. Plan enclosure space, feeder supply, and a clear method for rehoming before pairing adults.
A note on keeping multiple jumpers together
Most jumping spiders are best housed individually. Group housing often ends with stress, missing limbs, or cannibalism, especially once they’ve matured.
Final thoughts
A pet jumping spider thrives in a small, tidy enclosure with height, hiding places, and steady fresh air. Keep moisture light and purposeful. Feed prey that’s safely sized. Leave the spider alone when it retreats to moult. Do those few things well and you’ll see the real character of a jumper: a patient observer, then a sudden, exact leap.1, 2
References
- Encyclopaedia Britannica: Jumping spider (family Salticidae)
- Nagata T. et al. (2012). Depth perception from image defocus in a jumping spider. Science (PubMed abstract)
- European Space Agency (ESA): Jumping spider vision (depth perception from defocus overview)
- Healthline: Jumping spider bite (typical symptoms and when to seek care)
- Australian Government DAFF: Unique or exotic pets (invertebrates such as spiders not permitted as pets)
- RSPCA Australia: Animal care information (general guidance on welfare basics: environment, diet, stress reduction)
- Australian Government DCCEEW: Live Import List (rules around importing live specimens)
- Australian Government DAFF: Invertebrate animals (biosecurity risks and import context)
- Taylor L.A. et al. (2022). Jumping spiders do not seem fooled by texture gradient illusions. Behavioural Processes (PubMed abstract)
Veterinary Advisor, Veterinarian London Area, United Kingdom