People usually search “pet garden spider” for one of two reasons: they’ve found a spider in the yard and are wondering if it’s safe (or humane) to keep, or they’re setting up a small enclosure and want the basics right the first time.
Spiders can survive in captivity, but only when their needs match the species. The common “garden orb-weavers” many Australians notice at dusk are hardy outdoors, short-lived, and built for web life, not handling. The calmer approach is to identify what you’ve actually got, check local wildlife rules, then decide whether to observe and release, or keep for a short period with minimal interference.
First: “garden spider” isn’t one species
In Australia, “garden spider” is a loose label. It can mean an orb-weaver hanging in a wheel-shaped web, a wolf spider hunting on the ground, or a jumping spider peering from a fence post. Care differs because their hunting style differs.
One common group is the Garden Orb-weaving Spiders (including Eriophora species), found widely across Australia. They build orb webs to catch flying insects, then wrap prey in silk before feeding.1
Is it a good idea to keep a wild spider as a pet?
Sometimes—briefly, and with restraint. Many spiders don’t cope well with frequent disturbance, and “doing well” can look like stillness, hiding, or simply not eating.
Before you do anything else, check legal requirements where you live. In some jurisdictions you may need a permit to keep spiders, and you may be restricted from taking wildlife from the wild (especially threatened species). The Northern Territory, for example, requires permits and proof of purchase for pet spiders and warns against removing threatened species from the wild.2
Types you might see in gardens (and what that means for care)
Orb-weavers (classic “garden web” spiders)
Orb-weavers are web specialists. They place a large, sticky, wheel-shaped web where insects fly, then respond to vibrations when prey hits the silk.1
These are usually better observed outdoors. Indoors, they often struggle to build a functional web in a small container, and feeding can become hit-and-miss.
Jumping spiders (Salticidae)
Jumping spiders don’t rely on a large capture web. They hunt with sharp vision and short, controlled pounces. In a small enclosure, they can be easier to accommodate than a big web-builder—provided there’s ventilation, climbing surfaces, and suitable live prey.
Wolf spiders (ground hunters)
Wolf spiders roam and ambush rather than building orb webs. They need floor space, shelter, and a substrate that stays dry enough to avoid mould but not so dry that the animal dehydrates.
Quick ID checks: web, posture, and where you found it
- Big wheel-shaped web at night: likely an orb-weaver.1
- No web, fast on walls or windows; “faces” you: often a jumping spider.
- On the ground under mulch/rocks; runs rather than climbs: often a wolf spider.
If you’re unsure, treat it as a “look, don’t handle” animal until it’s identified.
Housing: mimic the natural microhabitat, prevent escape
The enclosure should be secure (spiders can squeeze through small gaps) but still provide airflow. A well-sealed container with a lid that has small ventilation holes is commonly recommended; add substrate plus leaf litter, sticks, or bark so the spider can hide and move naturally.2
Place the enclosure in a bright, warm, shaded spot—not in direct sun, which can overheat small containers quickly.2
Web-builders need anchor points
If you’re keeping an orb-weaver temporarily, give it vertical space and multiple attachment points (twigs, mesh, or branches). Without good web anchors, they may repeatedly attempt web construction, damaging silk and wasting energy.
Food and water: keep it simple, keep it safe
Spiders are predators. Many will take live insects such as flies, moths, crickets, or grasshoppers, depending on the spider’s size and species.2
- Feed 1–2 times per week as a general starting point, adjusting for size, species, and whether prey is being taken.2
- Avoid pesticide exposure: if you collect insects yourself, ensure they haven’t been sprayed.2
- Water: a shallow dish (for example, a bottle cap) can provide moisture without flooding the enclosure.2
Note: The original draft described garden spiders as “omnivores” eating plant matter. Most spiders are carnivorous predators that feed on other animals, especially insects.2
Handling: less is safer (for you and the spider)
Handling is where most problems start: stress, falls, and bites. If you must move a spider, use a container-and-card method rather than fingers—especially if you can’t identify the species.
Official guidance commonly recommends handling spiders only when necessary, watching for signs of stress, and washing hands before handling to reduce disease risk to the animal.2
What “healthy” usually looks like
Healthy behaviour varies by species, but common signs include:
- settling into a regular hiding spot or web location
- steady posture and coordinated movement
- feeding responses appropriate to its hunting style (web strike for orb-weavers; active stalking for hunters)
For orb-weavers specifically, it’s normal to see them resting off the web during the day, then becoming more active around dusk and overnight.1
Common problems in captivity (and what to change first)
Not eating
Often caused by unsuitable prey size, low temperatures, lack of concealment, or too much disturbance. Offer smaller prey, reduce handling to near-zero, and make sure the spider has cover.
Mould and mites
Mould usually means stale food, poor ventilation, or a wet substrate. Remove uneaten prey promptly, improve airflow, and keep the enclosure dry enough to prevent fungal growth while still providing a water source.2
Dehydration or heat stress
Small enclosures can swing hot quickly. Keep the container out of sun and provide a reliable water source.2
How long do “garden orb-weavers” live?
Many common garden orb-weavers have a relatively short, seasonal life cycle. The Australian Museum notes a lifespan of around twelve months for female Garden Orb Weavers, with eggs laid in late summer to autumn and adults typically dying off by autumn to early winter.1
Safety note: bites and first aid
Many orb-weavers are reluctant to bite, and effects are often mild and local, but any bite should be treated seriously if symptoms spread, worsen, or if the spider might be a medically significant species.1
If you are bitten and feel unwell, seek medical advice promptly. For first aid and emergency steps, follow your state or territory health guidance. The NT Government provides detailed first-aid instructions for spider bites and emphasises getting medical assistance.2
Final thoughts
A “pet garden spider” is best treated as a short-term window into wild life: a small predator built for a particular niche. Identify the spider first, check local rules, then set up a secure, ventilated enclosure that matches how it lives—web-builder or hunter. Feed sparingly, keep it clean, and handle as little as possible.
The two “rare breeds of spider” mentioned in the original draft (Sorraia and Garranos) are in fact rare horse breeds, not spiders, and have been removed for accuracy.
References
- Australian Museum — Garden Orb Weaving Spiders
- Northern Territory Government — Keeping spiders as pets
- Australian Museum — Golden Orb Weaving Spiders
- Australian Museum — Prey capture and feeding
- Australian Museum — Spider facts
Veterinary Advisor, Veterinarian London Area, United Kingdom