Loaches

People usually search for loach feeding advice when a new fish is hovering over the gravel, missing meals, or outgrowing the tank faster than expected. With loaches, the stakes are mostly quiet ones: weight loss you don’t notice until it’s advanced, barbels worn down by the wrong substrate, and food that never reaches the bottom because quicker fish take it first.

Loaches are a broad group, not one “type” of fish, so feeding well starts with a simple reset: match food and routine to the species you actually have, then build a tank setup that lets bottom-dwellers eat without stress.

Quick profile (varies by species)
Typical size: ~5–30 cm (some species larger)
Typical lifespan: commonly 10+ years; some can live decades in good care³
Diet: omnivorous; many species are strong insect and invertebrate feeders³
Where they live in the tank: bottom and lower water column
Key needs: high dissolved oxygen, stable water quality, soft substrate, and plenty of cover^{3, 4}

First: identify the loach (because “loach care” isn’t one thing)

Common aquarium loaches can look similar when young, but their adult size and behaviour can be worlds apart. Before changing feeding or stocking, check the label from the shop (or match photos to a reputable species profile) and plan for the adult fish, not the juvenile.

Clown loach (Chromobotia macracanthus)

• Adult size: often 20–30 cm in aquariums, bulky when mature³
• Longevity: long-lived; commonly cited as a multi-decade commitment when kept well³
• Social: should be kept in a group; solitary fish often stay shy and stressed³

Yo-yo loach (Botia almorhae)

• Temperament: lively and social; can become pushy, especially in small groups or cramped tanks⁶
• Setup: appreciates sand and multiple hiding spots so individuals can avoid one another when needed⁶

Kuhli loach (Pangio spp., often sold as Pangio kuhlii)

• Behaviour: shy and often more active at dusk and night
• Feeding challenge: easily outcompeted; needs food delivered to the bottom and time to forage

Weather loach / oriental weatherloach (Misgurnus anguillicaudatus)

This species is widely treated as a pest in parts of Australia. Rules differ by state, but it is declared noxious/restricted in multiple jurisdictions and should not be released or moved between waterways.^{1, 2}

How loaches feed (and why bottom food still “disappears”)

Most loaches are built for foraging: barbels test the substrate, the mouth works close to the bottom, and much of the feeding happens in short bursts, then long, calm searching. In a community tank, that gentle rhythm can be disrupted by fast mid-water fish that intercept sinking food before it lands.

Loaches also do best when they can retreat between meals. Cover matters. A loach that feels exposed will often wait until lights are low, then feed quickly and vanish again.

What to feed loaches

Think in layers: a reliable staple, then rotating “real” foods that match natural prey and keep the fish in condition.

Staples (most days)

• Sinking pellets/wafers made for bottom-feeders (choose a size the loach can mouth easily).
• Vegetable-based options for omnivorous species (especially larger Botia/Chromobotia), offered in small amounts so leftovers don’t foul the water.

Protein and variety (several times a week)

• Frozen foods such as bloodworms, brine shrimp, daphnia and similar aquarium-safe invertebrates (thaw and rinse if needed).
• Live foods where appropriate and safe (from reputable sources), used as enrichment rather than the whole diet.

Occasional treats

• Snails or crustacean-based foods for species that naturally take hard-bodied prey (if compatible with your tank).

A note on “algae eaters”: loaches will graze and scavenge, but they are not a substitute for good maintenance or a balanced feeding plan.

How often to feed (and how to make sure they actually eat)

Most loaches do best with small, regular feeds rather than one large dump of food. Aim for once daily in stable community tanks, or split feeds (morning and evening) for active, fast-metabolism species and growing juveniles. Adjust based on body condition and water quality, not the calendar.

Practical ways to get food to the bottom

• Feed after lights dim (or just before lights-out) if you have shy loaches, especially kuhli loaches.
• Use feeding tongs or a feeding tube to place food near cover, not in open sand where fish feel exposed.
• Spread food out across two or three spots so a dominant loach (or fast tank mates) can’t monopolise it.
• Watch the substrate for 2–3 minutes: barbels down, steady foraging, and no frantic surface-darting usually means the food is in the right place.

What to avoid

• Overfeeding “because they’re scavengers”. Uneaten food quickly becomes ammonia and nitrate pressure, and loaches are sensitive to poor water conditions.
• Sharp gravel. Many loaches dig and sift; coarse, sharp substrate can damage barbels and mouths. Fine sand is generally safer for burrowing species.⁶
• Keeping social species alone. Several common loaches are schooling/shoaling fish and are typically recommended in groups for natural behaviour and lower stress.^{3, 6}

Tank conditions that affect feeding

Loaches may stop eating for reasons that look like “picky feeding” but are really environmental. Two factors show up again and again: oxygen and hiding places.

• High oxygen and good flow: warm water holds less oxygen, and many loaches come from well-oxygenated habitats; strong filtration and surface agitation help.³
• Cover and a soft bottom: caves, driftwood, leaf litter-style cover, and dense plants let loaches feed with less exposure.⁶

Breeding: keep expectations realistic

Many popular loaches are very difficult to breed in home aquariums, even when adults are healthy. Clown loaches in particular are widely regarded as challenging to breed in captivity, so most feeding advice is about maintaining long-term health rather than conditioning pairs for routine spawning.³

Common health issues linked to feeding

Feeding problems in loaches often show up as subtle changes: a fish that stops sifting, hides constantly, or grows thinner behind the head while still “picking”. If you’re seeing that, consider these quick checks before changing diets again:

• Competition: are faster fish taking sinking food before it reaches the bottom?
• Water quality: any measurable ammonia/nitrite, or persistently high nitrate, can suppress appetite.
• Parasites: new fish and live foods can introduce parasites; quarantine new arrivals where possible.
• Injury to barbels: rough substrate and dirty bottoms can contribute to mouth/barbel damage, making feeding painful or ineffective.

Keeping loaches well: the long view

Loaches reward patience. Given stable water, soft substrate, and food that reliably reaches the bottom, they settle into a steady routine: short, purposeful bursts of feeding, long stretches of calm foraging, and quiet social interactions around their chosen shelter.

Plan for their adult size and lifespan, keep them in suitable groups, and feed like you’re supporting a small ecosystem rather than “dropping dinner into a tank”. That approach tends to keep loaches sturdy, visible, and surprisingly bold over time.^{3, 6}

References

1. Business Queensland — Chinese weatherfish (Misgurnus anguillicaudatus): restricted invasive animal information
2. NSW Department of Primary Industries — Oriental weatherloach (Misgurnus anguillicaudatus) pest profile
3. Loaches Online — Clown loach (Chromobotia macracanthus) species profile
4. Australian Department of Agriculture, Fisheries and Forestry — Importing live fish to Australia (ornamental fish conditions and permitted species)
5. Australian Government (Minister for Agriculture) — Media release on penalties for illegally imported live fish (27 April 2024)
6. Aquadiction — Yo-yo loach (Botia almorhae) species spotlight and care guidance
7. PIRSA (South Australia) — Oriental weatherloach pest profile and noxious species note
8. Australian Department of Agriculture, Fisheries and Forestry — Industry Advice 41-2025 (live ornamental fish quarantine release conditions)