People usually start searching about pet lizards when they’re weighing up a first reptile, or when their new enclosure still doesn’t feel “right” — the basking spot runs too cool, meals get refused, or the animal hides for days. With reptiles, small husbandry gaps can turn into slow-moving health problems, especially around heat, UVB and calcium.
Below is a grounded overview of choosing a suitable beginner species in Australia, setting up a stable habitat, feeding safely, and spotting the early signs that a vet visit is due. Where rules differ between states, the safest approach is to check your local wildlife licensing requirements before you buy.
Choosing the right lizard for your home
Most pet lizards are not “low maintenance”. They are, however, wonderfully steady animals when the basics are right: correct heat and UVB, a predictable day–night cycle, and food that matches the species.
For many Australian homes, these species are often considered manageable for beginners (with the right set-up):
- Central bearded dragon (Pogona vitticeps): diurnal, basks under strong heat and UVB, and is usually tolerant of gentle handling once settled.1
- Blue-tongued skink (various Tiliqua species, including shingleback in some regions): robust, ground-dwelling, and often calm, but still needs correct heat, UVB and diet.
- Leopard gecko: popular overseas, but not native to Australia. Whether you can legally keep one depends on your state and territory rules. Check before you commit.
A quick reality check on legality: in Australia, reptile keeping is regulated, and the rules vary by state. In NSW, reptile keeper licensing sits with the NSW environment department and includes enforceable conditions and codes of practice.2 Queensland requires a licence to keep protected native animals, and notes there are no reptile exemptions (meaning reptiles aren’t “licence-free” there).3 South Australia also requires permits for many native species and is explicit that taking animals from the wild is illegal.4
Match the species to your space and routine
The animal’s daily rhythm matters. A day-active basking lizard in a dim lounge room will never really thrive, and a nocturnal species in a high-traffic spot may spend its life wedged in the darkest corner.
- Time at home: diurnal species benefit from a stable daytime schedule; nocturnal species still need correct overnight temperatures and hiding spots.
- Space: larger lizards need long enclosures so they can choose between warm and cool zones.
- Access to an exotics/reptile vet: plan this before you need it.
Setting up the habitat: heat, UVB, and a place to disappear
A good reptile enclosure is a small landscape with gradients: warm to cool, bright to dim, exposed to sheltered. The lizard does the rest, moving through that landscape to regulate body temperature and behaviour.
Bearded dragon enclosure basics (Australia-friendly guideposts)
Adult bearded dragons are active, ground-oriented reptiles that do best in a long enclosure rather than a tall one. RSPCA Australia suggests an adult enclosure around 1.2–1.8 m long, with adequate width and height for movement, basking and some climbing.1
Heat should form a clear gradient across the enclosure. RSPCA describes a thermal gradient of roughly 27°C up to 45°C so the dragon can choose where to sit, with preferred body temperatures often in the high 30s to low 40s.1
Substrate and furnishings: safe footing beats “natural-looking”
Choose a substrate that won’t cause problems if it’s accidentally swallowed, and that you can clean properly. Paper, tiles, or other easy-clean options are often used for many captive lizards because they reduce the risk of ingestion and make daily hygiene simple.
Furnish the enclosure like scrub-country: a solid basking platform under the heat/UVB, at least one hide on the cooler side, and a few stable climbing branches or rocks where appropriate. RSPCA notes bearded dragons enjoy climbing and benefit from rocks and branches, while also warning that excessive plants can push humidity too high for this desert species.1
Water and humidity: keep it practical
Most pet lizards need access to clean water, but “more humidity” is not universally better. Desert species can develop problems when kept too damp; some species need a humid hide to support shedding. Aim for the range appropriate to your species, and adjust based on behaviour, sheds, and veterinary advice.
Feeding your lizard: what to know (and what not to do)
Diet is where good intentions often go sideways. Many lizards will eat what’s offered, even when it’s not appropriate long term.
Start with the species’ natural pattern
- Insect-and-plant eaters (for example, many dragons): a mix of appropriately sized insects and a daily salad/greens base is common, with careful calcium management.
- Primarily insect eaters (many geckos): insect variety matters; fruit and vegetables are not universally suitable and may be ignored or cause digestive issues depending on the species.
Calcium, vitamin D3, and UVB aren’t optional
Calcium supplementation and UVB exposure work together. Without enough UVB (or appropriate dietary vitamin D3 under veterinary guidance), reptiles can’t regulate calcium properly, and metabolic bone disease becomes a real risk.1, 5
Food safety and hygiene (for humans as well as lizards)
Reptiles can carry Salmonella even when they look perfectly healthy. Simple habits make a big difference: wash hands after handling the lizard, its enclosure, or its food; keep reptile gear out of kitchens and food-prep areas; and clean habitats in a way that avoids cross-contamination.6
Common health issues in pet lizards
Reptile illness often arrives quietly. Appetite changes, subtle posture shifts, and “just hiding more than usual” can be the early signals.
Metabolic bone disease (MBD)
MBD is commonly linked with inadequate UVB, poor calcium intake, and/or imbalanced supplementation. Over time, bones can weaken and deform, and mobility can be affected. Prevention is built into daily husbandry: correct UVB, correct heat, and a diet designed for the species, with supplements used thoughtfully rather than randomly.1, 5
Respiratory disease and husbandry stress
Respiratory infections can be associated with enclosure conditions (including temperatures that are too low for the species, poor ventilation, and unsuitable humidity). The fix is rarely a single “magic” tweak. It’s usually a steady return to correct gradients, clean conditions, and veterinary care when symptoms appear.
When to see a vet sooner rather than later
- Open-mouth breathing when not basking, wheezing, bubbles or discharge around the nose
- Weakness, tremors, dragging limbs, jaw softness, or obvious bone deformity
- Persistent refusal to eat (especially alongside weight loss or lethargy)
- Repeated vomiting/regurgitation, or diarrhoea that doesn’t settle
- Difficulty shedding (stuck shed constricting toes or tail tip)
Handling and settling in: calm, slow, predictable
For a new lizard, the first “bonding” step is simply learning that the enclosure is safe, food arrives regularly, and nothing reaches in to grab from above. Give a new animal time to acclimatise before frequent handling.
- Approach from the side rather than сверху (overhead movement can trigger a defensive response in many species).
- Support the body fully. Avoid restraining the tail or limbs.
- Keep early sessions short, and return the lizard to its enclosure before it escalates into struggling.
Training: what’s realistic
Lizards aren’t domesticated in the way dogs are, and they don’t generalise “commands” well. But many will learn patterns. They can become easier to feed, easier to move for cleaning, and less reactive to your presence when routines are consistent.
Think of it as shaping behaviour through predictability: same feeding location, same gentle approach, and rewards that match the species (often a favourite insect for insectivores).
Other pets in the home
Most problems here are avoidable and sudden. Dogs and cats can injure reptiles quickly, even during “supervised” introductions. Keep the reptile enclosure secure, stable, and out of reach, and don’t allow other pets to crowd the glass or sit on heat cords.
In Victoria, general wildlife licence guidance also notes enclosures must protect wildlife from predators, including domestic animals such as cats and dogs — a principle that applies sensibly everywhere, whether or not you’re operating under a specific licence category.7
Final thoughts
A pet lizard can be a quietly fascinating animal to live alongside — a small sun-seeker with its own map of warm and cool places, hiding spots and routines. Most success comes down to a few non-negotiables: lawful sourcing, a stable thermal gradient, appropriate UVB, and a diet that fits the species.
If you’re unsure, start by confirming your local licence requirements and choosing a species with well-established husbandry standards in Australia, then build the enclosure before the animal arrives. The lizard will tell you a lot, in posture and appetite, once the environment is right.
References
- RSPCA Australia Knowledgebase: How should I care for my bearded dragon?
- NSW Environment & Heritage: Reptile keeper licences (including Code of Practice)
- Queensland Government: Licences to keep, use or display native animals
- South Australia Department for Environment and Water: Keeping native animals
- Merck Veterinary Manual: Metabolic bone disease in reptiles
- CDC: Reptiles and Amphibians (Healthy Pets, Healthy People)
- VIC.GOV.AU: General wildlife licence requirements (enclosure safety and predator protection)
- VIC.GOV.AU: Understanding your obligations (Wildlife Basic or Advanced Licence)
- Western Australia DBCA: Fauna licences (pet keeper’s licence information)
Veterinary Advisor, Veterinarian London Area, United Kingdom