Most people land on a kitten-care guide for the same reason: a small cat has just arrived (or is about to), and you want to get the basics right—food, litter, sleeping, safety, and that first vet visit—without missing something that later becomes expensive or hard to fix.
Kittens grow fast and learn even faster. In a few weeks they can pick up good habits (using the litter tray, accepting handling, settling at night) or practise the wrong ones (rough play, chewing cords, skipping the tray). The sections below focus on the practical checks that matter most in the first year, with Australia-specific notes for vaccination and microchipping.1, 2
Preparing your home
What to have ready before the kitten arrives
A kitten doesn’t need much, but the right few items make the first days calmer and safer.
- Litter tray and litter (easy to step into; unscented litter suits many cats)
- Food and water bowls (ceramic or stainless steel are easy to clean)
- Kitten food labelled “complete and balanced” for growth
- Carrier (you’ll need it for the vet, and for any unexpected trips)
- Scratching post (stable enough not to wobble)
- Simple toys (wands for shared play; small balls; a few rotate-through favourites)
- A quiet sleeping spot (a washable bed or a soft blanket in a covered box works well)
Making the space safe (kitten-proofing)
Kittens explore with teeth and paws. Do a slow scan at floor level.
- Secure cords and chargers so there’s nothing to chew or tangle in.
- Remove small swallowable objects (rubber bands, string, hair ties, children’s toys).
- Check windows, balconies, and flyscreens; falls happen quietly and quickly.
- Lock away chemicals and medicines, including essential oils and cleaning pods.
- Houseplants: assume a kitten will sample leaves. If you’re unsure a plant is cat-safe, move it out of reach.
For the first few days, many kittens settle best in one “starter room” (food, water, tray, bed), then gradually earn more space as they learn the household routine.
Nutrition and feeding
What kittens need (and why adult food isn’t enough)
Kittens are building bone, muscle, eyes, and brain on a tight schedule. Feed a diet made for kittens (growth/life stage) rather than adult cat food, which may not meet the higher energy and nutrient needs of rapid growth.3
Feeding rhythm: how often to feed
Most kittens do better with small, frequent meals than one large serve.
- 8–12 weeks: around 4 small meals a day
- 3–6 months: at least 3 meals a day
- 6–12 months: 2–3 meals a day
Exact portions depend on the food and the kitten’s size—use the packet guide as a starting point and ask your vet if you’re unsure.3
Wet food can help with hydration, and dry food can be convenient; many households use a mix. Fresh water should always be available.3
Foods to avoid
Some common “just a taste” foods can be genuinely dangerous for cats. Avoid (and keep well out of reach):
- Onion, garlic, chives, leeks (can damage red blood cells)
- Grapes, raisins, sultanas, currants (risk of kidney failure)
- Coffee, tea, energy drinks, caffeine products
- Chocolate
- Cooked bones (can splinter and injure the gut)
- Milk and dairy (often causes diarrhoea because many cats don’t digest lactose well)
If you suspect your kitten has eaten something toxic, call your vet urgently. If you’re in Victoria, Agriculture Victoria has a clear list of human foods to avoid for cats that’s worth bookmarking.4
Health and veterinary care
The first vet visit
Book a check-up soon after bringing your kitten home (or before, if you’re choosing between kittens). A vet can:
- check weight, heart, lungs, eyes, ears, mouth and skin
- look for fleas and signs of intestinal worms
- set up a vaccination plan that matches your kitten’s real-world risk (indoors only, other cats in the house, shelter/rescue background, future boarding)
- discuss desexing timing, microchipping, and parasite prevention
Vaccinations (Australia)
In Australia, core cat vaccination is commonly referred to as F3 and helps protect against feline panleukopenia (“enteritis”) and the viruses that cause cat flu.1
RSPCA Australia notes that kittens need a primary course starting at around 6–8 weeks, with doses given every 3–4 weeks until the kitten is 16–20 weeks old, with the final vaccination no earlier than 16 weeks.1
After that, boosters are usually spaced out based on the vaccine used and your cat’s circumstances (often every 1–3 years for core vaccines—your vet will advise).2
Deworming and parasite control
Many kittens pick up intestinal worms early in life, sometimes with few obvious signs. Your vet will advise a deworming schedule and the right product for your kitten’s age and weight.
Socialisation and behaviour
What “normal kitten behaviour” looks like
Kittens practise the skills they’ll use as adults: stalking, pouncing, climbing, and grappling with littermates. It can look like chaos, but it’s also how they develop coordination and learn bite inhibition.
Socialisation windows (and why handling matters)
Early gentle handling helps kittens become comfortable with people. A widely cited “sensitive period” for social development is roughly 2 to 7 weeks of age, when kittens are especially responsive to calm, positive contact and exposure to normal household sounds and movement.5
If your kitten is older (common with adoptions), you can still build confidence—just go slower and let the kitten choose distance and timing.
Common issues and quiet fixes
- Play biting and scratching: redirect onto toys; stop the game when teeth touch skin; reward calm play.
- Scratching furniture: place a scratching post near the favourite spot and make it more appealing (stable, tall enough to stretch).
- Litter tray misses: keep the tray clean, accessible, and away from noisy appliances; see a vet if there’s diarrhoea, constipation, or straining.
Training and enrichment
Teaching the basics without turning it into a battle
Kittens learn by association. If something works (attention, movement, a fun chase), they repeat it. Keep training short, gentle, and consistent.
- Carrier comfort: leave the carrier out with a soft blanket and occasional treats inside.
- Handling practice: brief daily touches to paws, ears, and mouth, followed by a reward—useful later for nail trims and vet checks.
- Daily play: a few short, active sessions suit most kittens better than one long session.
Grooming and hygiene
Brushing by coat type
Short-haired kittens often manage with light brushing a couple of times a week. Long-haired kittens usually need more frequent brushing to prevent mats forming behind the ears, under the arms, and around the tail base.
Nail trimming, ears, and baths
Most kittens don’t need regular baths. When hygiene jobs do come up, keep it simple:
- Nails: trim only the sharp tip; avoid the pink “quick”.
- Ears: wipe only what you can see on the outer ear with a vet-recommended cleaner; don’t push anything down the canal.
- Coat mess: spot-clean with a damp cloth first; bathing is a last resort.
Litter tray setup and upkeep
Place the tray somewhere quiet and easy to reach. Scoop daily. Change litter as needed and wash the tray regularly. A clean tray prevents many “behaviour problems” that are really just hygiene preferences.
Safety and precautions
Outdoor time: choose a controlled option
Outdoor access increases risks (traffic, fights, parasites, infectious disease). If you want your kitten to experience fresh air, consider a secure cat run or harness training, and talk to your vet about what extra parasite prevention and vaccinations might be needed for that lifestyle.1, 2
Microchipping and identification (Australia)
Microchipping is one of the simplest ways to reunite lost cats with their families. In Victoria, for example, cats must be microchipped before first council registration, and Agriculture Victoria notes that a microchip is a permanent form of identification read by a scanner and matched to a registry record.6
Legal requirements vary by state, territory, and council. RSPCA’s legislation knowledgebase summarises microchipping rules across Australia, and Western Australia’s Cat Act requirements include microchipping by 6 months and before transfer to a new owner, with details kept up to date on an approved database.7, 8
A collar and tag can help too, but collars can come off. A microchip stays put.
Fun facts and gentle truths
Small milestones you might notice
- Kittens are typically born with eyes closed, opening over the first couple of weeks.
- Early play is more than entertainment; it’s rehearsal for coordination and social skills.
Final thoughts
Good kitten care is mostly quiet routine: safe spaces, the right food, steady handling, a clean litter tray, and timely vet care. Get those right, and the household usually settles into a rhythm—the kitten grows sturdier, braver, and more predictable by the week.
References
- RSPCA Australia — What you need to know about pet vaccinations
- RSPCA Knowledgebase — What vaccinations should my cat receive?
- IAMS — Kitten Feeding Guide
- Agriculture Victoria — Human foods to avoid for cats
- Cats International — Kitty Kindergarten (sensitive period 2–7 weeks)
- Agriculture Victoria — Microchipping of dogs and cats
- RSPCA Knowledgebase — Is microchipping mandatory for cats and dogs?
- Western Australia DLGSC — Microchipping (Cat Act requirements and database notes)
- University Veterinary Teaching Hospital Sydney — Kitten vaccinations schedule
Veterinary Advisor, Veterinarian London Area, United Kingdom