Keeping Amazon Fish in a “Natural” Aquarium

People usually land on an “Amazon river tank” guide when they’re trying to make sense of two things at once: the look of a natural Amazon-style aquarium, and the practical needs of fish like angelfish and discus. Get it right and the tank settles into a quiet rhythm. Get it wrong and the problems arrive slowly—stressed fish, algae, and water that never quite stabilises.

Below is a grounded way to set up an Amazon-inspired freshwater tank using safe materials, stable filtration, and realistic stocking. It leans on what these fish actually need: warm, clean water, gentle flow, cover from wood and plants, and enough space to avoid constant territorial pressure.

Choose a realistic tank size

Angelfish and discus are tall-bodied fish that look calm when they can turn and rise without folding fins against glass. While some care guides list smaller minimums for single angels, a mixed “Amazon showcase” with large cichlids needs space for adult size, hierarchy, and plant mass.

• Angelfish: a small group generally does best from around 55 US gallons (about 208 L) and up, with good height as well as volume.^{1, 2}
• Discus: they’re commonly kept in groups and prefer very stable, warm water; many guides put a group tank at roughly 55 US gallons (about 208 L) or larger, and bigger is easier to keep stable.³

If you’re planning adult angelfish and adult discus together, think in the range of 350–500+ litres as a practical starting point. Not because the river demands it, but because the fish do.

Understand the Amazon look (and what matters most)

The classic Amazon feel comes from structure more than decoration: submerged roots, driftwood, scattered leaf litter, and shaded water. In the wet season, fish move into flooded margins where tangled vegetation and wood create refuge and breeding areas. Your tank can echo that with:

• Driftwood and branchy root pieces to break up sightlines
• Dense planting at the back and sides, with open water through the middle
• Soft, subdued lighting and some surface cover from floating plants

Substrate: skip “creek gravel” and use safe, known materials

Collecting gravel, sand, rocks, or wood from local creeks can introduce pollutants, parasites, and unwanted hitchhikers. It also risks bringing in materials that leach minerals or metals. For a tank you want to keep stable for years, use aquarium-safe substrate from a reputable supplier.

A simple, reliable approach for an Amazon-style planted tank is:

• Base: a purpose-made planted aquarium substrate or a thin layer of mineralised topsoil capped properly (if you’re experienced)
• Cap: fine sand or fine gravel to keep the water clear and protect plant roots

If you like the “riverbank” look, choose a fine, pale sand with a few darker patches, then let leaf litter and wood do the rest.

Driftwood and rocks: build shelter, then make it safe

Use driftwood sold for aquariums or from a trusted supplier. Wood should be scrubbed, rinsed, and soaked. It may release tannins at first—this can tint the water tea-coloured, which suits an Amazon aesthetic and is harmless for most Amazonian fish.

Rocks should be inert (not fizzing in vinegar). Avoid unknown stone that may harden the water over time.

Heating and filtration

Discus and angelfish prefer warm water, and discus in particular are commonly kept at about 28–31 °C (82–88 °F).³ Angelfish tolerate a broad tropical range (often cited around 24–30 °C), which overlaps well with a warm Amazon tank when the fish are healthy and the water is clean.²

Aim for:

• Stable temperature: avoid windows and direct sun (temperature swings and algae follow)
• Strong biological filtration with gentle flow: canister filters or large HOB filters work well when the outlet is directed to avoid blasting the fish
• Redundancy if you can manage it: two heaters sized appropriately can reduce risk if one fails

Lighting: bright enough for plants, soft enough for fish

Plants need adequate light, but Amazon fish often look and behave better under softer, broken light. Use a quality LED made for planted tanks and keep the photoperiod steady.

• Start at 8 hours/day, then adjust based on plant growth and algae.
• If algae appears early, reduce intensity or duration before you reach for chemical fixes.

Oxygen and surface movement (what bubblers actually do)

Air stones don’t “inject oxygen into the water” in a simple way. Their main value is the surface agitation they create, which improves gas exchange. A good filter outlet that gently ripples the surface often provides enough oxygenation on its own.

Live aquatic plants also produce oxygen during the light period, though they consume oxygen at night like any living organism. In warm water (where oxygen is naturally lower), steady surface movement is your quiet insurance.

Water quality: dechlorinate properly and don’t rely on “letting it sit”

Australian tap water is usually safe for people, but disinfectants used for public health can harm fish. Always treat new water with a proper aquarium dechlorinator.

• Chlorine can dissipate over time, but the rate varies and it’s not a dependable method for aquarium use.
• Chloramine (used by some water providers) does not rapidly dissipate by standing and must be neutralised with appropriate conditioners.⁴

Before buying fish, test your water with a liquid kit and learn the rhythm of your tank. For Amazonian species, stability matters as much as hitting a perfect number.

Target ranges (practical, not perfect)

• Ammonia: 0
• Nitrite: 0
• Nitrate: keep low (especially for discus and cardinal tetras; lower is better)
• Temperature: commonly 28–30 °C in a discus-centred tank³
• pH: many Amazon fish do well in slightly acidic to neutral conditions; don’t chase numbers with harsh chemicals—prioritise stability

Cycle the tank before adding fish

A new tank needs time for nitrifying bacteria to establish in the filter media and substrate. This “cycle” is what converts toxic ammonia into nitrite, then into nitrate. Until it’s established, fish are living in their own waste.

Fishless cycling with a measured ammonia source is widely used because it avoids exposing fish to toxic spikes. The cycle is considered complete when the tank can process an added ammonia dose down to zero ammonia and zero nitrite within about 24 hours, leaving nitrate as the end product.⁵

Plant choices that suit the look (and the fish)

Amazon biotopes in the strict sense are complicated, but an Amazon-inspired tank can still be coherent. Choose plants that tolerate warm water and lower flow, and that offer vertical cover for angelfish.

• Tall background plants for shelter and to soften corners
• Mid-ground clumps to create “rooms” and hiding spaces
• Floating plants for shade (use sparingly so you don’t block gas exchange)

Quarantine or rinse plants from any source. Wild-collected plants can carry snails, parasites, or pathogens.

Stocking suggestions (and what to reconsider)

It’s tempting to build the full cast list at once. Resist it. Add fish slowly so the filter bacteria can grow with the bioload.

Angelfish (Pterophyllum scalare)

Angelfish can be kept as a bonded pair or a small group, but they can become territorial as they mature. In groups, space and visual barriers reduce bullying.^{1, 2}

Discus (Symphysodon spp.)

Discus are sensitive to poor water quality and are usually kept in groups, warm water, and very clean conditions. If you’re new to fishkeeping, consider running the tank successfully with hardier fish first, or keep discus in a species-focused setup.³

Cardinal tetras (Paracheirodon axelrodi)

Cardinals are schooling fish and look best in a proper group. They prefer soft, slightly acidic water and steady conditions. They’re also more vulnerable to poor water quality than many beginner tetras, so add them only once the tank is well established.^{6, 7}

Bristlenose catfish (Ancistrus spp.)

Bristlenose are useful algae grazers, but they’re not a cure for a tank that’s getting too much light or too many nutrients. They also need a real diet (not just algae) and benefit from driftwood and hiding places.⁸

A note on “odd numbers” and sexing fish

Aggression is more about space, maturity, and territory than whether you have an odd or even number. Sexing angelfish and discus at the shop is often uncertain unless you’re buying proven adults, and even then it’s not foolproof. Plan your layout so weaker fish can disappear from view when needed.

Setting up the aquarium (a clean sequence)

1. Place the tank away from direct sun and draughts.
2. Add substrate (planted base if using one, then cap with sand/fine gravel).
3. Position wood and rock so it’s stable and creates broken sightlines.
4. Fill slowly onto a plate or bag to avoid stirring the substrate.
5. Install heater and filter; aim the outlet for gentle surface movement.
6. Plant heavily from the start (it helps compete with algae).
7. Dechlorinate as you fill.
8. Cycle the tank fishlessly and test regularly until ammonia and nitrite are consistently zero after dosing.⁵
9. Add fish gradually, starting with hardier species, and wait between additions.

Maintenance that keeps the tank calm

In a warm, heavily stocked Amazon-style tank, small regular maintenance beats big heroic clean-ups.

• Water changes: 25–50% weekly is common in discus-centred systems, especially as stocking and feeding increase.³
• Vacuum gently: lift waste from open areas without uprooting plants.
• Filter care: rinse media in old tank water (not under the tap) to protect beneficial bacteria.
• Test routinely: temperature, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate—especially after adding fish or changing feeding.

If algae is thriving, treat it as a sign: too much light, too many nutrients, or not enough plant growth. “Cleaner fish” can help tidy surfaces, but they won’t correct the underlying conditions.

References

1. EasyClean Aquatics — Angelfish (Pterophyllum scalare): adult size and recommended aquarium size
2. Tropical Fish Hobbyist (TFH) — Pterophyllum scalare profile (size, temperature range, minimum tank guidance)
3. Fishkeeping World — Discus fish care guide (temperature range and general requirements)
4. United States EPA (archived page) — Chloramine: does not rapidly dissipate on standing; aquarium water must be treated
5. DrTim’s Aquatics — Fishless cycling method and “cycle complete” criteria (ammonia to nitrate with zero nitrite)
6. Aquatic Community — Cardinal tetra (Paracheirodon axelrodi): temperature and pH range, sensitivity
7. Aquarium Tips — Cardinal tetra care notes (clean, stable water; best added to established tanks)
8. Fishkeeping World — Bristlenose pleco care (tank conditions, driftwood, filtration)