Pet-proofing usually starts after a close call: a chewed power cord, a knocked-over bottle of cleaner, a cat on the windowsill, a dog in the bin. These moments are common, and they can turn serious quickly—poisoning, choking, falls, burns, and escapes are all everyday risks inside normal homes.
Good pet-proofing is quiet, practical work. You look at each room the way a curious animal moves through it—low to the ground, nose-first, climbing when possible—then remove access to the few things that cause the most harm, and keep checking as routines change.
Why pet-proofing matters
Dogs and cats explore with their mouths and paws. They can open swinging doors, push bins over, chew plastic, and reach ledges you assumed were out of bounds. Many hazards don’t look dramatic—medications on a bedside table, a lily in a vase, bait in the shed—but they can cause rapid illness and expensive emergency care.1, 2, 3
Quick home hazard scan (start here)
If you want a fast, high-impact check, walk through your home once at pet height and focus on access. These are the items that most often lead to urgent vet visits:
- Foods and sweeteners: chocolate, grapes/raisins/sultanas, and xylitol (in some sugar-free foods and medicines) are frequent causes of poisoning.3, 5, 6
- Plants and cut flowers: lilies are especially dangerous for cats, including pollen and even vase water.1, 2
- Medications: many human medicines can poison pets even in small amounts; treat dropped tablets as an emergency clean-up job.3
- Rodent baits: rodenticides can poison pets directly, and also harm wildlife; store securely and use only as directed on the label.4, 8
- Falls and escapes: unsecured windows, balconies, and weak fence points are quiet but constant risks.
- Chewing hazards: electrical cords, small hard objects, and soft plastics that can block the gut.
Identifying hazards room by room
Kitchen
The kitchen is rich with scent trails and reachable rewards. Most problems come from access—benchtops, bins, and low cupboards.
- Lock away cleaning products in a high cupboard or behind child-proof latches, especially under the sink.
- Make the bin uninteresting: use a bin with a tight lid (or store it inside a latched cupboard) so pets can’t reach packaging, bones, coffee grounds, or mouldy food.
- Store risky foods out of reach: keep chocolate, grapes/raisins/sultanas, and anything labelled “sugar-free” (may contain xylitol) in closed cupboards, not on benches.5, 6
- Heat and sharp edges: don’t leave hot pans unattended, and keep knives and skewers away from bench edges where a paw can pull them down.
Living areas and bedrooms
Living spaces are where pets settle—and where the small, repeatable risks hide in plain sight.
- Manage cords: route power leads behind furniture, use cord covers, and keep chargers out of chewing range.
- Keep small objects off low surfaces: coins, hair ties, batteries, kids’ toys and sewing items are easy to swallow and hard to pass.
- Plants: choose safe or place high: if you have cats, treat lilies as a “never indoors” plant—pollen can be ingested during grooming.1, 2
- Medication discipline: don’t leave blister packs or pill organisers on bedside tables; pick up dropped tablets straight away.3
Bathroom and laundry
These rooms concentrate chemicals, capsules, and standing water—interesting to pets, and often dangerous.
- Store medicines and cosmetics in closed cupboards (not on benches), including vitamins and pain relief.3
- Keep toilet lids closed and consider keeping the door shut if your pet is a persistent drinker.
- Lock away cleaning pods and detergents and keep razors, cotton buds, and dental floss out of reach.
Outdoor spaces: fences, plants, and baits
Outside, the risks are less predictable: wind moves branches, neighbours drop food, and wildlife crosses the fence line.
- Walk the fence line weekly: look for gaps, loose palings, dig points, and spots where a bin or log creates a jump-up.
- Check plants before pets access them: many common garden plants are toxic; if you’re unsure, confirm the plant’s safety before letting pets roam.7
- Be careful with rodent control: rodenticides are toxic to animals. Store locked up, follow the label, and use bait stations where required—never loose baits that pets can carry or eat.4, 8
Training helps, but it doesn’t replace barriers
Training can reduce risk—“leave it”, recall, and mat/settle cues are genuinely useful—but it’s not a substitute for secure storage and physical prevention. Pets learn patterns, and they also have off days. The safest homes assume curiosity will win eventually, then quietly remove the opportunity.
Regular checks and maintenance
Pet-proofing isn’t a once-off job. Animals change: a puppy learns to counter-surf, a kitten discovers the curtain rail, an older dog starts scavenging more persistently.
- Do a quick weekly scan of floors and low surfaces for dropped tablets, wrappers, batteries, and small objects.
- Re-check “out of reach” spots after furniture moves, visitors stay over, or holidays bring extra food into the house.
- Update your set-up if your pet’s abilities change (jumping higher, opening doors, chewing more).
If you think your pet has been poisoned
Move the pet away from the source, remove any remaining material you can safely reach, and contact a vet or a poisons service straight away. Don’t wait for symptoms—early advice can change the outcome.3
References
- RSPCA Knowledgebase: Are lilies toxic to cats?
- RSPCA NSW: Toxic plants for pets
- Animal Poisons Helpline (Australia): 24/7 advice for pet poisonings
- APVMA: Rodenticides (safe use and animal risk)
- ASPCA: What to do if your pet gets into chocolate
- Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine: Grape and raisin toxicity
- RSPCA Australia: Keeping my pet safe from garden dangers
- APVMA: Proposed changes to anticoagulant rodenticide use (16 December 2025)
- Merck Veterinary Manual: Xylitol toxicosis in dogs
Veterinary Advisor, Veterinarian London Area, United Kingdom