How to Help Your Pets Deal with Loud Noises

Fireworks, thunderstorms, a vacuum cleaner that suddenly screams into life — for many pets, loud noise isn’t just “a bit scary”. It can tip them into a full-body fear response that looks like shaking, hiding, frantic pacing, or desperate attempts to escape.

The practical problem is safety. A panicking animal can bolt through an open door, crash into windows, or hurt themselves trying to get away. The goal is to read the early signs, set up a refuge that actually works, and use training (and veterinary support when needed) to soften the fear over time.^{1, 2}

Why loud noises hit pets so hard

Noise sensitivity sits on a spectrum. Some animals startle, then recover quickly. Others develop a learned fear response to certain sounds (thunder, fireworks, banging bins), and the reaction can intensify with repeated exposure if nothing changes.^{5, 6}

Dogs often show their distress openly — trembling, panting, vocalising, pacing, trying to climb into a lap or wedge behind furniture. Cats tend to go quiet and disappear, sometimes emerging tense or reactive if cornered. The behaviour looks different, but the underlying state is the same: a nervous system on high alert.^{1, 2}

Common triggers

• Thunderstorms (noise plus pressure changes, rain, flashes of lightning)
• Fireworks (unpredictable bangs, whistles, vibration, flashing light)
• Household noise: vacuum cleaners, blenders, smoke alarms, power tools
• Neighbourhood sounds: nail guns, motorbikes, trucks, slamming doors

Recognising distress: what to look for

Fear is often clearest in the moments before the noise peaks: your pet “checks out” of normal behaviour, scanning for escape routes or retreating to a familiar hiding place. If you can spot that early shift, you can help sooner.

Behavioural signs

• Hiding, cowering, freezing, clinginess^{1, 2}
• Trembling, pacing, restlessness, unable to settle^{1, 2}
• Excessive barking or vocalising (common in dogs)¹
• Destructive behaviour or escape attempts (digging, jumping fences, chewing doors)^{2, 3}

Physical signs

• Panting, drooling
• Dilated pupils
• Rapid breathing or a racing heart
• Toileting accidents

Why it matters to act early

With noise phobias, “waiting it out” often doesn’t work. Repeated panic can make the pattern more entrenched, and the welfare risks (injury, escape, self-trauma) climb quickly.^{5, 6}

What to do during fireworks or storms (the immediate plan)

Think in layers: reduce what your pet can see and hear, offer a refuge they can choose, and keep the household calm and predictable. You don’t need to over-manage the moment — you’re setting the conditions for the fear to pass with fewer sharp edges.

• Bring pets indoors early and keep doors, windows, pet doors and gates secured.^{2, 4}
• Close blinds/curtains to reduce flashes and visual stimulation.^{2, 4}
• Add masking sound: soft TV, radio, or steady background noise (a fan can help).^{1, 2}
• Offer distraction if your pet will take it: food puzzles, a chew, a favourite toy. Don’t force interaction if they choose to hide.^{2, 4}
• Never punish fear. It doesn’t teach bravery; it adds another threat to the scene.⁴
• Do not tether a frightened dog (risk of choking or injury if they panic).⁴

Creating a safe space that your pet will actually use

A good safe space is simple: quiet, dim, familiar, and available before the noise starts. It should be a place your pet can enter and leave freely (unless they must be confined for safety).^{4, 7}

What “safe” looks like for different pets

• Dogs: a covered crate, a hallway corner, or a small room with bedding and something that smells like home.⁷
• Cats: a quiet room with hiding options (boxes, under-bed access) plus a high perch (cat tree or shelf), with litter and water nearby.^{1, 4}
• Birds and small mammals: bring enclosures inside where possible, reduce flashes, and provide extra cover while keeping ventilation safe.⁷

Making the safe space appealing

• Set it up on calm days first. Let your pet explore without pressure.
• Feed treats there occasionally so it gains a “good things happen here” feel.⁷
• During noise events, allow hiding. Don’t drag them out to “face it”.^{2, 4}

Desensitisation and counter-conditioning (the long game)

Training works best when it’s quiet, planned, and slow enough that your pet stays under their fear threshold. The aim isn’t to prove the noise is harmless in one session; it’s to change the prediction your pet makes when the sound appears.^{5, 6}

Desensitisation: gradual exposure

1. Use a recording of the trigger sound (fireworks or thunder) at a very low volume.
2. Run short sessions. Watch your pet, not the clock.
3. Increase volume in tiny steps across days or weeks, only while your pet remains comfortable.
4. If you see fear signs (freezing, trembling, bolting, refusing food), the volume is too high — step back to an easier level next time.⁷

Counter-conditioning: pairing noise with something good

Pair the low-level sound with a high-value reward (special treats, a favourite game, a food puzzle). Over time, the sound becomes a cue for good things, not danger.^{5, 7}

Common mistakes that slow progress

• Going too fast (most setbacks come from rushing volume increases).
• Training during real events as the first attempt. Start well before storm season or planned fireworks.
• Accidentally “flooding” your pet by playing loud recordings in the background. That can worsen fear in some animals.⁵

Preparing for predictable noise events

If you know fireworks are scheduled, or storms are forecast, preparation starts earlier in the day. Calm bodies cope better.

• Exercise beforehand (dogs especially): a tired dog often settles more easily later.^{2, 8}
• Feed and toilet before the noise, so basic needs don’t add pressure mid-event.^{2, 7}
• Set up the safe room early: water, bedding, hiding options, curtains closed, masking noise ready.^{2, 4}
• Check ID details (microchip and tag) in case fear drives an escape attempt.^{2, 4}

After the event

When it’s quiet again, keep things gentle and ordinary. Offer water, a toilet break, and a chance to rest. If your pet stays distressed long after the noise has stopped, or refuses food and won’t settle, treat that as useful information to take to your vet.⁷

When to get professional help

Bring a vet into the picture if your pet’s fear is intense, worsening over time, or risky.

Signs it’s time

• Self-injury or damage caused by frantic escape attempts
• Panic that lasts hours after the noise ends
• Aggression triggered by fear (especially if people may be bitten or scratched)
• No improvement despite careful management and slow training

What treatment can include

Veterinary support may involve behaviour modification, environmental changes, and — for some animals — medication to reduce panic so learning is possible. If your usual clinic doesn’t offer behaviour consults, ask for a referral to a qualified behaviour practitioner.⁶

References

1. RSPCA Pet Insurance (Australia) — Fireworks anxiety in pets
2. RSPCA Australia — Caring for animals during fireworks displays
3. RSPCA NSW — Tips to help keep pets safe during firework displays
4. RSPCA Knowledgebase — How should I care for my pets during fireworks displays?
5. Today’s Veterinary Practice — Noise and storm phobias and anxiety in dogs
6. British Small Animal Veterinary Association (BSAVA) — Fireworks (position statement)
7. RSPCA Victoria — Managing pets during fireworks or thunderstorms
8. UNSW Newsroom — Things that go bang: tips to help your pet cope with storm and firework season