People usually end up here because something has happened: your cat has come home with sticky sap on their coat, rolled in something foul, or they’ve been prescribed a medicated wash for an itchy skin problem. You want them clean, but you also want everyone to get out of the bathroom with skin, nerves, and dignity intact.
Cats are built for self-grooming, and most never need a routine bath. When a bath is truly necessary, the safest approach is simple: warm water, cat-specific shampoo, steady hands, and a quick exit into a warm towel. If your cat panics or you’re dealing with skin disease, it’s often kinder to let a vet or professional groomer handle it.1, 2
Do cats need baths?
In a healthy cat, usually not. Their tongues and grooming habits do most of the work, and bathing can be stressful for many cats.1, 2
A bath can make sense when:
- They’ve gotten into something sticky, oily, smelly, or hard to remove with brushing alone.4
- A veterinarian has recommended bathing as part of a skin treatment plan (for example, medicated shampoo with a set contact time).6
- They can’t groom properly due to age, obesity, arthritis, or illness, and the coat is becoming dirty or greasy.5
Before you start: quick safety checks
Bathing is one of those jobs that’s easiest when you decide, early, whether it’s safe to proceed.
Skip the bath and call your vet if
- Your cat is struggling to breathe, seems weak, or is unwell.
- You suspect they’ve been exposed to a chemical, oil, paint, or toxin (you’ll need specific advice on what to do first).
- Your cat becomes frantic: biting, throwing themselves, or showing signs that someone is about to get injured. Professional help is safer for everyone.4
Trim claws first (if your cat will tolerate it)
Shorter claw tips reduce accidental scratches during handling. If claw trimming is a battle, don’t turn it into a wrestling match right before a bath.4
What you’ll need (set it up within arm’s reach)
- Cat-specific shampoo (or a medicated shampoo prescribed by your vet).1, 5, 6
- Two large towels (a third is useful for long-haired cats).
- A non-slip bath mat or folded towel in the sink/tub so your cat isn’t sliding.4
- A plastic cup/jug for rinsing, or a hand-held spray nozzle on a gentle setting.4, 6
- A washcloth for the face (usually plain water is enough).4
- Treats for afterwards (and during, if it genuinely helps and doesn’t increase stress).
Use the right shampoo (and avoid human products)
Don’t use human shampoo (including baby shampoo). Cats have different skin needs, and human products can be too harsh and drying. Stick to a shampoo formulated for cats, and follow label directions—especially dilution instructions and any recommended “contact time” for medicated products.4, 5, 6
Set the scene: calm, warm, and contained
Close the door. Keep the room warm. Have towels laid out where you can grab them without letting go of the cat. Cats tend to cope better when everything is quiet and predictable, with no running taps roaring like a waterfall.1, 4
How to bathe a cat (step by step)
1) Brush first
Brush out loose fur and gently work through small tangles before any water goes near them. Mats tighten when wet, and they’re harder to deal with mid-bath.1, 4
2) Add a shallow level of lukewarm water
A few inches is plenty—roughly 8–10 cm. The water should feel comfortably warm, not hot.4
3) Lower your cat in slowly and keep your grip steady
Support their body with one hand and keep them facing away from you if possible (it can reduce the chance of being scratched). Pause for a moment once their feet are on the non-slip surface so they can register what’s happening.4
4) Wet the coat gently (avoid face and ears)
Use a cup or a gentle spray to wet the body, working from the neck down. Aim for quiet, controlled movements. Keep water and shampoo out of the eyes and ears.1, 4
5) Shampoo: less than you think, spread evenly
Apply a small amount of cat shampoo, lathering along the body in the direction of hair growth. Focus on dirty areas, and keep it off the face. If the product says to dilute it first, do that—it often makes rinsing easier.4, 5
If you’re using a medicated shampoo, follow your veterinarian’s directions exactly. Some medicated shampoos need to sit on the coat for several minutes before rinsing (often 5–10 minutes).5, 6
6) Rinse thoroughly (then rinse again)
Rinse until the water runs clear and the coat no longer feels slippery. Leftover shampoo can irritate the skin, and cats will lick residues from their fur later.4, 5, 6
7) Wipe the face with a damp cloth
Skip pouring water over the face. Use a washcloth with plain water, unless your vet has advised otherwise.4
Drying: the quiet part that matters
Towel-dry promptly and keep them warm
Lift your cat straight into a towel and wrap them like a burrito, then pat-dry. Rubbing can tangle fur, especially in long-haired cats. Move them to a warm, draught-free room while they finish drying.1, 4, 6
Hair dryers: only if your cat tolerates it
Many cats find dryers frightening. If you use one at all, keep it on the lowest heat setting and stop if your cat shows escalating stress.4
Signs your cat is too stressed (and it’s time to stop)
Some cats can handle a short bath. Others can’t, and forcing it usually makes the next attempt worse.
- Hissing, growling, or frantic escape attempts
- Flattened ears, tense body, wide eyes
- Trying to bite or rake with the back feet
If you’re seeing these signs, end the session, towel-dry, and reassess. A vet clinic or experienced groomer may be the safer option, especially if bathing is needed for medical reasons.4, 5
Alternatives to a full bath
Spot cleaning with a damp cloth
For a small patch of dirt, a warm damp cloth is often enough—and far less dramatic than a full soak.
Dry shampoo (vet-recommended)
If your cat seems to need frequent bathing, talk with your vet. They may suggest a “dry shampoo” or a different plan that’s kinder on skin and nerves.5
Professional grooming or vet assistance
For heavy matting, severe coat contamination, or cats that react strongly, professional handling can prevent injuries. If matting is close to the skin, don’t try to cut it out with scissors—this is a common way cats end up with serious lacerations.1
Common mistakes to avoid
- Using human (or dog) shampoo. Use a cat-formulated product, or a medicated shampoo prescribed by your vet.1, 5
- Bathing too often. Most cats don’t need baths at all; frequent bathing can dry the skin and strip natural oils. If your cat needs repeated baths, check in with your vet.2, 5
- Rushing the rinse. Residue is a common cause of post-bath itch and discomfort.4, 6
- Trying to “push through” panic. If your cat is escalating, stopping early is often the safer, kinder decision.4
Final thoughts
A cat bath is rarely about making them smell like shampoo. It’s a practical, occasional tool—used when the coat is truly dirty, or when a vet has a medical reason for it. Keep it brief. Keep it warm. Rinse well. Then let your cat retreat to a quiet patch of sunlight and repair their composure, one deliberate lick at a time.1, 2, 5
References
- RSPCA Pet Insurance Australia — Grooming your cat (includes bathing guidance)
- RSPCA Knowledgebase — How often do I need to groom my cat? (includes bathing advice)
- RSPCA Victoria — Caring for your cat (grooming and bathing notes)
- ASPCA — Cat grooming tips (step-by-step cat bathing tips)
- VCA Animal Hospitals — Grooming and coat care for your cat (bathing frequency, shampoo choices)
- VCA Animal Hospitals — How to bathe cats with medicated shampoo
- NSW Department of Primary Industries — Animal welfare code of practice: animals in pet grooming establishments
- Anicira — Can I give my cat a bath? (bathing frequency and shampoo cautions)

Veterinary Advisor, Veterinarian London Area, United Kingdom