People usually start searching for green aracari care when they’re weighing up whether this bird is realistic to keep at home, or when they’ve already found one for sale and want to check the basics: space, diet, noise, lifespan, and the health risks that can sneak up in captivity.
A green aracari can be hardy in the right hands, but the margin for error is small. Housing that’s too tight, fruit that’s too sugary or too high in iron, and a lack of specialist vet support can turn a bright, active bird into a chronically unwell one surprisingly quickly.1, 2
Quick profile (at a glance)
- Scientific name: Pteroglossus viridis (green aracari)2
- Adult size: about 30–40 cm long (12–16 in)2, 3
- Adult weight: roughly 110–160 g (about 3.9–5.7 oz)2, 3
- Activity pattern: diurnal (active by day)3
- Wild diet: mostly fruit; also insects and occasional animal prey/opportunistic items3, 4
- Lifespan: often a few years in the wild; can reach the mid-teens (and sometimes longer) in human care with excellent husbandry3
First: are green aracaris legal to keep where you live?
Before you fall in love with the idea, check local rules. In Australia, importing live birds is tightly controlled and depends on species eligibility, permits, and biosecurity conditions; a bird that isn’t eligible under the Commonwealth live import framework can’t be legally imported, even if it’s common overseas.5, 6, 7
Even if a bird is already in the country, state and territory rules can still affect whether you can keep it, breed it, or move it across borders. If you’re unsure, start with the Australian Government guidance on bringing in pet birds and the live import list requirements, then confirm your state/territory position in writing.6, 7
What a green aracari is like to live with
Green aracaris are small ramphastids (the toucan family), built for canopy life: quick hops, short flights, constant curiosity, and long hours spent foraging and sampling whatever looks edible.3, 4
They’re often described as “social”, but that doesn’t automatically translate to cuddly. Many become calm and manageable with steady handling, predictable routines, and a low-stress environment, but they’re still a wild species in captive care. Expect a bird that watches closely, tests boundaries with its bill, and learns patterns fast.
Noise level
They aren’t usually the loudest birds in aviculture, but “quiet” can be misleading. Their calls can be sharp and repetitive, and noise tends to rise with boredom, over-stimulation, or a bird that’s been kept alone without enough daily interaction.
Compatibility with children
Not recommended for young children. The bill is light compared with a large parrot’s, but it’s still a strong tool with serrated edges, designed to grip and manipulate food. Startle bites happen, and children often move too fast for a bird that relies on predictability.4
Natural habitat and behaviour
In the wild, green aracaris live in humid lowland forests in north-eastern South America, spending much of their time high in trees where fruit is abundant.3
They tend to forage in small groups, moving through the canopy with frequent pauses to feed, preen, and watch. Nesting is in tree cavities (often existing hollows rather than excavated nests), which matters in captivity if you ever plan to provide appropriate breeding spaces or “retreat” hollows for security.1
Diet and feeding: where most pet problems begin
A green aracari’s diet is fruit-heavy, but it shouldn’t be a bowl of supermarket fruit salad. In captivity, ramphastids are particularly prone to iron storage disease (haemochromatosis/haemosiderosis), a serious liver condition linked to diet and husbandry.1
What to aim for day to day
- A formulated softbill/ramphastid pellet designed to be low in iron, offered consistently (not just “as an option”).1
- Fruit variety, with a bias towards lower-iron choices; keep portions sensible so fruit doesn’t crowd out the balanced diet.1, 3
- Protein “extras” in moderation (for example invertebrates), reflecting that wild birds do take insects alongside fruit.1, 3
- Fresh water daily, plus cleaning that keeps fruit residue from fermenting.
Foods to be cautious with
Some guidance for captive toucans and aracaris recommends limiting citrus and other high vitamin C/acid foods because they may increase iron absorption, which is unhelpful in a species already prone to iron storage problems. If you’re feeding any “special” items (supplements, high-vitamin treats, unusual protein), do it with your avian vet’s input rather than internet guesswork.1
Feeding rhythm
Two main feeds a day can work, but the real goal is steady intake and clean presentation. These birds are built to forage frequently, so scatter-feeding safe items, hiding pellets in foraging toys, and rotating produce can reduce boredom while keeping nutrition stable.
Housing and enclosure needs
Green aracaris are active, and they do best when the enclosure lets them move with purpose: short flights, climbing, hopping between stable perches, and choices about where to sit. Larger is always kinder, but “tall” is not a substitute for “long”.1
Practical enclosure guidelines
- Prioritise length for flight: a long aviary run is more valuable than extra height alone.
- Perches that make sense: natural branches of varied diameter, positioned to allow direct flights between them (not just climbing).
- Hygiene-friendly surfaces: fruit splatter happens; you want materials you can scrub thoroughly.
- Weather and temperature: stable shelter from heat, cold winds, and rain. Avoid placing an enclosure in full sun for long periods.
- Cavity-style retreat: a suitable hollow/log or nest-box style refuge can reduce stress, reflecting their cavity-nesting biology.1
Training and socialisation
Training is mostly about cooperation, not tricks. A bird that steps up calmly, accepts brief restraint, and tolerates carrier time is a bird that can actually receive medical care when it matters.
Keep sessions short. Reward calm behaviour. End early. These birds learn quickly, and they also learn what makes you back away.
Health concerns and veterinary care
Find an avian veterinarian before you “need” one. Softbills can decline quickly once they stop eating, and the signs can be subtle until they aren’t.
Key risks to discuss with an avian vet
- Iron storage disease (diet-linked liver disease) and what a genuinely low-iron plan looks like in your household.1
- Diet mistakes (including inappropriate commercial diets). There are documented cases of iron storage disease associated with unsuitable feeding practices in captive birds.8
- Parasites and infections, especially if the bird’s history is unknown.
Simple signs that should prompt a vet visit
- Reduced appetite, or only picking at favourite fruit
- Fluffed posture, sleeping more in daylight, or sitting low on the perch
- Breathing changes (tail bobbing, open-mouth breathing)
- Persistent diarrhoea or very watery droppings
- Sudden behaviour change (unusual aggression, unsteady movement)
So, is a green aracari a good pet?
A green aracari suits a household that can provide space, routine, and specialist care. They’re visually striking and busy in a quiet, constant way, but they aren’t a “beginner bird”, and they don’t thrive on fruit alone. The best-kept birds tend to live in large, clean enclosures, eat a controlled low-iron diet, and see an avian vet as part of normal life rather than a last resort.1, 3
How big does a green aracari get?
Most sources place adults at around 30–40 cm long (12–16 inches).2, 3
Are green aracaris loud?
They’re not usually at the extreme end of bird noise, but they can be vocal, and the sound carries. Daily enrichment, space, and routine make a noticeable difference.
What do green aracaris eat?
In the wild they eat mostly fruit, with insects and other opportunistic items as well. In captivity, they’re often managed with a low-iron softbill/ramphastid pellet plus carefully chosen produce, because of the risk of iron storage disease.1, 3, 4
How long do green aracaris live?
Lifespan varies by conditions. Wild birds are often reported with shorter lifespans, while well-kept birds in human care may reach the mid-teens, with occasional individuals recorded older.3
Can you keep a green aracari in Australia?
Rules and eligibility are strict and depend on import conditions and permits, and also state/territory rules. Start by checking Australian Government guidance on importing pet birds and live import eligibility before making any plans or purchases.5, 6, 7
References
- Association of Avian Veterinarians (AAV) — Special Considerations for a Special Species: Housing Toucans
- Green aracari (Pteroglossus viridis) — species overview
- Los Angeles Zoo — Green Aracari fact sheet
- St. Augustine Alligator Farm Zoological Park — Green Aracari species information
- Australian Border Force — Importing animals (overview and permit responsibilities)
- Australian Government, Department of Agriculture, Fisheries and Forestry — Importing your pet bird
- Australian Government, DCCEEW — Wildlife trade permits: Do I need a permit?
- PubMed — Iron storage disease in captive parrots exposed to an inappropriate (carnivorous) diet (case report)
Veterinary Advisor, Veterinarian London Area, United Kingdom