Feeding and Caring for your Pet Turtle

People usually land on turtle-care pages just after bringing one home, or when they’re standing in a pet shop wondering what “proper setup” really means. The early weeks matter. A turtle can keep eating while quietly slipping into trouble if the water is dirty, the basking spot is too cool, or there’s no UVB to support calcium use.

What follows is the steady, practical baseline: what to feed (and what to avoid), how often to offer it, and how to set up heat, light, and water so the animal can regulate itself. It also covers the unglamorous part—hygiene—because turtles can carry germs like Salmonella even when they look perfectly healthy.^{1, 2, 3}

Start with the species (because “turtle diet” isn’t one thing)

Some commonly kept turtles are mostly carnivorous when young, then broaden out as they mature; others remain strongly meat-focused. Australian long-necked turtles (Chelodina species), for example, are described as carnivorous by the RSPCA, while short-necked turtles are more omnivorous.⁴

If you’re not sure what you have, confirm the species before you set the diet and temperatures. Small differences—how readily they bask, how warm they prefer the water, what they naturally forage—shape everything else.

Choosing the right diet: aim for variety, not a single “staple” food

Most pet aquatic turtles do best on a mixed routine built around:

• A quality commercial turtle pellet as a consistent base (especially useful for micronutrients).
• Whole, appropriate animal foods (depending on species): insects, worms, aquatic invertebrates, and occasional fish or prawns; for some larger carnivorous turtles, whole-prey items may be used under veterinary guidance.⁴
• Plant matter for omnivorous species: dark leafy greens and vegetables offered regularly, not just as decoration.

Avoid leaning too hard on mealworms as a “default” insect. Many commonly offered feeder insects have a poor calcium-to-phosphorus balance unless they’re properly supplemented (and mealworms are a classic example).⁵

Calcium and vitamin D: the quiet hinge in turtle health

Turtles need adequate calcium and6

Practical ways to support this include:

• Offering a diet with an appropriate calcium-to-phosphorus balance (aiming for at least 1:1, with 2:1 often preferred in reptile nutrition guidance).⁵
• Providing UVB lighting (or safe, unfiltered natural sunlight) so vitamin D pathways can function.^{4, 7}
• Using a turtle-safe calcium source (many keepers use cuttlebone; discuss powders and schedules with a reptile vet, especially for growing animals).

Feeding schedule and portion control

How often you feed depends on age, species, and water temperature (digestion slows when it’s cool). As a general starting point, young turtles are often fed daily, while many adults do well on fewer feeds each week, with body condition guiding the fine detail.⁸

Portion control is simple but effective:

• Offer only what your turtle can finish without leaving the water fouled with leftovers.
• Remove uneaten food promptly, especially animal foods, to protect water quality.
• Adjust up or down over a few weeks by watching body condition and activity, not by sticking to a rigid scoop size.

Providing a clean and safe habitat

For aquatic and semi-aquatic turtles, water quality is not a background detail—it’s a daily environmental factor they sit in, breathe above, and swallow in small amounts. The RSPCA notes that water quality is an integral component of good health for pet turtles.⁴

At minimum, plan for:

• A tank large enough for normal swimming and turning.
• Reliable filtration and a routine for partial water changes.
• A dry basking platform that is easy to climb onto and fully dries the shell.
• Hiding structure so the turtle can withdraw from light and activity.
• A secure lid or turtle-proof rim (they climb better than most people expect).

When it’s time to clean, treat turtle water like raw chicken juice: keep it away from food-prep areas, and clean habitats outside the house where possible.^{2, 3}

Maintaining optimal temperature and lighting conditions

Turtles manage their bodies by moving between zones: warmer and cooler water, a hot basking surface, bright light and shade. Your job is to provide a gradient and let the animal do the regulating.

Heating: create a gradient, not a single number

The RSPCA describes an aquatic turtle setup with a thermal gradient around 18°C to 24°C in the tank, with a basking area around 28–34°C.⁴

Use thermostats and thermometers (one reading water temperature, another at the basking surface). If the basking area is too cool, turtles may stay in water and miss UV; if it’s too hot, they may avoid it altogether.

UVB and day length: light that actually does something

UVB matters because it supports vitamin D pathways that allow calcium absorption and normal bone development; without adequate UVB, metabolic bone disease becomes more likely.^{6, 7}

Key points that save a lot of confusion:

• UVB does not pass through glass or plastic, so a turtle sitting by a sunny window is not receiving useful UVB.⁴
• Provide a consistent photoperiod (many captive setups use roughly 10–14 hours of light depending on season and species).⁹
• Follow the lamp manufacturer’s distance guidance so the UVB intensity at shell height is effective, not merely bright.

Handling and “socialising”: keep it brief, keep it safe

Turtles aren’t cuddly animals, and frequent handling is usually more about the keeper than the turtle. Handle only when needed—health checks, tank moves, veterinary visits—and support the body firmly with two hands.

Wash hands before and after. Reptiles can carry germs that affect people, and turtles are a well-known source of Salmonella exposure through their bodies, tank water, and anything around their habitat.^{2, 3}

Household hygiene rules that actually prevent problems

• Don’t clean tanks or filters in kitchen sinks, or anywhere food is prepared.²
• Keep turtles away from kitchens and dining areas, and don’t let them roam the house.^{2, 3}
• Children under five and other high-risk people should not handle turtles, as severe illness is more likely.²

Common health issues and how to prevent them

Metabolic bone disease (MBD)

MBD is one of the big preventable conditions in captive reptiles. It’s most often associated with a mismatch between diet and husbandry—insufficient calcium, too much phosphorus, lack of UVB, and temperatures that don’t support normal digestion and metabolism.^{6, 7}

Prevention is steady rather than dramatic: correct UVB, correct basking access, and a diet that doesn’t quietly rob calcium.

Shell and skin problems

Dirty water, poor filtration, and a lack of proper basking/drying time can set the stage for skin and shell issues. Aim for clean water, a fully dry basking platform, and a temperature gradient the turtle actually uses.⁴

Respiratory illness and lethargy

Low temperatures, damp conditions without proper drying, and chronic stress from an exposed tank layout can contribute to illness. If your turtle stops eating, floats oddly, breathes with effort, or remains lethargic despite correct temperatures, a reptile-experienced vet should see it promptly.

Tips for long-term turtle care and maintenance

• Plan for growth. Many turtles outgrow “starter” tanks quickly, and cramped water volumes foul faster.
• Keep a simple routine. Regular partial water changes, filter maintenance, and quick daily checks beat occasional deep cleans.
• Review lighting on a calendar. UVB effectiveness declines over time; replace lamps on the schedule recommended by the manufacturer, even if the bulb still looks bright.
• Book a baseline vet visit. An early check can catch husbandry issues before they show up as shell or bone disease.¹⁰

Final thoughts

A well-kept turtle enclosure looks calm: clear water, a warm dry basking place, light that mimics day, and food that matches the animal in front of you. Most problems begin when one of those basics quietly slips—usually UVB, temperature, or water quality. Keep those steady, and you give the turtle a world it can regulate from the inside out.^{4, 6}

References

1. CDC Newsroom (16 August 2024): Tiny turtles and Salmonella illnesses
2. U.S. Food & Drug Administration (FDA): Pet turtles as a source of germs (Salmonella advice)
3. Better Health Channel (Victoria): Safe handling of reptiles and tropical fish (hygiene and Salmonella)
4. RSPCA Australia Knowledgebase: How should I care for my pet turtle?
5. Merck Veterinary Manual: Nutrition in reptiles (calcium:phosphorus guidance)
6. Merck Veterinary Manual: Nutritional, metabolic, and endocrine diseases of reptiles (metabolic bone disease causes)
7. RSPCA Australia Knowledgebase: Why does my reptile need sunlight?
8. RSPCA Vet (Queensland): Turtle care (feeding frequency, UVB and heating overview)
9. Merck Veterinary Manual (Table): Reptile housing requirements (photoperiod and UVB range)
10. Merck Veterinary Manual: Special considerations for reptiles (vet check-ups and hygiene)