Most people look up cichlid care when they’re about to buy fish, troubleshooting aggression in an established tank, or trying to stop a slow slide in water quality before it turns into illness. Cichlids can be hardy, but their mix of territorial behaviour, heavy feeding, and (often) strong opinions about their neighbours means small setup mistakes tend to show up quickly.
Below is a practical guide to choosing cichlids, building a habitat that suits their natural behaviour, keeping water steady, and feeding in a way that supports colour and health without fouling the tank.
Understanding cichlids (and why “cichlid” isn’t one type of fish)
Cichlids are a large family of mostly freshwater fishes found across tropical America, mainland Africa and Madagascar, and parts of southern Asia.1 The group is famous for its diversity: body shapes, feeding styles, breeding strategies, and social behaviour can vary sharply between species.
In the aquarium trade, “cichlid” commonly refers to a few broad groups:
- African Rift Lake cichlids (especially from Lakes Malawi, Tanganyika, and Victoria): often colourful, fast, and territorial.
- South and Central American cichlids (such as Oscars and many “New World” cichlids): often larger-bodied, boisterous, and messy eaters.
- Dwarf cichlids (for example, many Apistogramma species): smaller fish that still appreciate structure, calm tankmates, and stable water.
Choosing species: start with adult size and temperament
Many cichlids are sold young, when they look peaceful and compact. The trouble arrives later, when adult size and adult territorial behaviour emerge. Before you buy, look up the expected adult length, how it breeds (pairing, harem, mouthbrooding, substrate spawning), and whether it’s known for intense aggression during spawning and brood care.1
Setting up an ideal cichlid habitat
Tank size: water volume buys stability
Cichlids don’t just need room to swim; they need room to establish distance. More water also dilutes waste, slows parameter swings, and gives you time to notice problems before fish are affected.
As a reality check, large cichlids like Oscars are widely recommended for tanks around the 75 gallon (about 280 litre) range or larger for a single adult, with bigger tanks needed for multiple adults and tankmates.2, 3 If you’re planning a “feature fish” cichlid, choose the tank first, then the fish.
Filtration and water quality: the quiet engine of the tank
Cichlids tolerate a range of conditions depending on species, but they cope poorly with instability: rapid shifts, chronic ammonia/nitrite issues, or steadily rising nitrate. Strong filtration and consistent maintenance matter more than chasing an exact number on a test kit.
Good habits that prevent most problems:
- Don’t overcrowd. Crowding increases aggression and pollution, even when fish seem fine at first.4
- Don’t overfeed. Uneaten food becomes water quality trouble surprisingly fast.4
- Quarantine new fish (and live foods if used). New arrivals are a common pathway for parasites and disease into a display tank.4
Décor and substrate: build territories, not obstacles
Many cichlids dig, rearrange, and claim sites. A tank that is too bare forces constant face-to-face contact, which can keep low-level stress simmering.
Practical setup notes:
- Use stable rockwork and caves to create broken lines of sight (visual “walls” reduce chasing).
- Choose sand or fine gravel if your species digs or sifts (many do).
- Avoid sharp décor that can tear fins during disputes or frantic dashes.
- Secure everything; large cichlids can shift objects and undermine stacked rocks.
Cichlid behaviour and social structure
Territoriality: normal behaviour that needs space
Territorial behaviour is not a “bad attitude”; it’s a common survival strategy in the wild. Many species establish and defend a patch of habitat, especially around breeding. In a glass box, the same behaviour can become relentless if the tank has no structure or escape routes.
Compatibility: match body size, speed, and resilience
Mixing cichlids (or keeping them with non-cichlids) works best when tankmates are:
- too large to be eaten,
- confident enough not to be constantly harassed, and
- suited to the same temperature and water chemistry.
Be wary of pairing assertive cichlids with small, slow, long-finned fish. What looks calm during the first week can change dramatically as territories form.
Managing aggression without constant intervention
If aggression is building, avoid the trap of “fixing” it with constant netting and reshuffling. Start with the environment.
- Add more cover and visual breaks so subdominant fish can disappear from view.
- Rehome or separate chronic bullies (some individuals don’t settle).
- Check stocking and feeding; crowding and hunger both amplify conflict.
Feeding and nutrition
Diet depends on the species
Cichlids range from largely vegetarian to strongly carnivorous, with many opportunistic omnivores in between.1 The safest approach is to start with a high-quality food made for your cichlid group (for example, herbivore-focused foods for algae-grazing Rift Lake species) and then add variety.
Feeding schedule: enough to eat, not enough to rot
A simple rhythm works well in most home tanks: feed once daily (or split into two smaller feeds) and offer only what is eaten quickly. Overfeeding is one of the most common causes of cloudy water, algae surges, and chronic fin and skin problems in aquaria.4
Foods to avoid
- Feeder fish from uncertain sources (can introduce parasites and pathogens).
- Fatty, inappropriate meats (not designed for many fish digestive systems).
- “One food only” diets that ignore species needs and lead to long-term deficiencies.
Health, disease prevention, and what “white spot” really means
Common problems in cichlid tanks
Many aquarium issues trace back to the same roots: stress, poor water quality, overcrowding, and introducing disease with new fish. NSW DPI notes that common problems in home aquaria include ich (white spot) caused by the protozoan parasite Ichthyophthirius multifiliis, as well as “fin rot” and other parasitic infections, and also warns that appearance alone can be misleading without proper diagnosis.4
White spot (Ich) in fish: quick recognition
Ich often shows as small white dots on the body or fins, sometimes preceded by rubbing (“flashing”), increased mucus, and reduced appetite. By the time spots are clearly visible, fish may already be quite unwell.5
It’s easy to confuse names: “white spot disease” can also refer to a serious viral disease of prawns and other crustaceans, which is not the same thing as ich in aquarium fish.6
Preventative care that actually works
- Quarantine new fish. It’s the simplest way to avoid importing parasites into a stable tank.4
- Keep maintenance steady. Regular partial water changes and filter care prevent the slow creep of nitrate and organics.
- Watch behaviour daily. Early changes (hiding, clamped fins, reduced feeding) often appear before obvious lesions.
- Ask a vet for uncertain cases. NSW DPI notes that many hobby “disease names” describe symptoms, not a single cause, and recommends veterinary advice for diagnosis rather than treating based on appearance alone.4
Breeding cichlids in captivity
Cichlids are well known for complex breeding behaviour and parental care, including nest defence and protection of young. In some groups, eggs and fry are carried in the mouth (mouthbrooding) until they hatch and develop further.1
Conditions that support spawning
- Stable water quality (consistency matters more than perfection).
- Defined breeding sites (flat stones, caves, shells, or sand patches, depending on species).
- Reduced stress (appropriate stocking, plenty of cover, minimal sudden changes).
Fry care basics
- Be ready to separate fry if adults or tankmates prey on them (behaviour varies by species and individual).
- Feed small foods frequently: specialised fry foods, finely crushed flakes, or appropriately sized live/frozen options.
- Keep water clean with gentle, regular maintenance; small fish are sensitive to poor water quality.
Quiet facts worth knowing
Despite their reputation in the hobby, many cichlids are not constant fighters. They are structured fish, shaped by breeding seasons, territories, and the layout of their habitat. When the tank is built with those needs in mind—space, cover, steady water, sensible feeding—their colour and behaviour settle into something calmer and more natural to watch.4
References
- Encyclopaedia Britannica — “Cichlid” (family Cichlidae): distribution, diversity, breeding behaviour
- Tropical Fish Hobbyist Magazine — “Astronotus sp.” (Oscar): size and general tank requirements
- Modest Fish — Oscar fish care guide: commonly recommended minimum tank sizes
- NSW Department of Primary Industries — Caring for your pet fish (overfeeding, overcrowding, quarantine, common aquarium diseases)
- University of Florida IFAS Extension (EDIS) — Ichthyophthirius multifiliis (Ich/white spot) infections in fish: signs and progression
- Australian Government (Outbreak.gov.au) — White spot disease (crustaceans) and clarification that it is not ich in fish
Veterinary Advisor, Veterinarian London Area, United Kingdom