Botia

Most people searching “Botia fish” are trying to work out a simple, practical question: is this loach the right fit for my tank, or will it outgrow the space, harass tank mates, or struggle in the wrong water? With Botia-type loaches, the consequences of getting it wrong show up slowly—stunting, chronic stress, repeated disease outbreaks, and a fish that spends its life wedged into a corner.

“Botia” is also used loosely in the aquarium trade. Some true Botia species stay mid-sized, while other “botia” sold in shops are different genera entirely, including the well-known clown loach. The care is similar in spirit—warm, clean, well-oxygenated water; a soft substrate; a group of their own kind—but size, temperament, and tank length can vary a lot.

Botia and “botia loaches”: what the name usually means

Botia is a genus of freshwater loaches (family Botiidae) from South and Southeast Asia.¹ In everyday aquarium talk, “botia” often expands to mean several related river loaches that look and behave similarly, including the clown loach (Chromobotia macracanthus).²

That matters because the common claims you see—“25 cm”, “peaceful”, “20-gallon tank”—can all be true for one “botia” and wildly wrong for another.

Quick reality check before you buy

• Ask for the scientific name. “Clown loach”, “tiger botia”, “dario botia”, and “yo-yo loach” are not interchangeable fish.
• Plan for adult size, not shop size. Some botiids top out around 13–15 cm, while clown loaches are recorded to 30.5 cm total length.^{1, 2}
• Assume it wants company. Most botiid loaches are social and behave better in groups, with enough space and hiding spots to take the heat out of squabbles.²

Natural habitat (and what to copy in an aquarium)

Wild botiid loaches live in freshwater systems across South and Southeast Asia. Depending on species, this can mean flowing creeks with rocky bottoms, larger river channels, and seasonally flooded areas.^{1, 2} The pattern is consistent: bottom-oriented fish, built for foraging along the substrate and slipping into cover.

In a home aquarium, the closest match is a tank with strong filtration, high dissolved oxygen, steady warm temperatures, and structure—wood, smooth rock piles, and caves—broken up by open lanes for fast, sudden bursts of swimming.

Size and lifespan: what’s realistic

The original draft lists “up to 25 cm” and “up to 10 years” as if that applies to all Botia. In practice, size and longevity depend on the exact fish.

• True Botia examples: Botia lohachata (often sold as a yo-yo loach) is listed with a maximum length of about 15.4 cm total length on FishBase.¹
• Clown loach (commonly lumped in as “botia”): FishBase lists a maximum length of 30.5 cm total length for Chromobotia macracanthus.²

Lifespan is similarly variable and strongly affected by water quality, tank size, and long-term stress. Treat “10 years” as a rough mid-point rather than a guarantee.

Behaviour and social life

These loaches are active bottom-dwellers that spend daylight hours tucked into cover and become bolder around dusk, especially in a settled tank. In groups, they show complex social behaviour—short chases, jostling, and a loose hierarchy that tends to calm down when there are enough individuals and enough space.³

On their own, many botiid loaches become withdrawn or, in some cases, more reactive and nippy. A proper group spreads attention and makes their behaviour look less like aggression and more like busy, restless foraging.

Compatibility: peaceful, boisterous, or pushy?

Temperament is species-dependent. Some are largely community-safe, others are boisterous and can intimidate smaller fish. Even the “peaceful” ones can be too much for slow, long-finned tank mates, and cramped tanks amplify every sharp edge of behaviour.³

As a rule of thumb, pair them with robust, similarly sized fish that tolerate warm water and current. Avoid delicate long fins and very small, timid species if your loaches are large, fast, or known fin-nippers.

Diet and feeding

Botiid loaches are omnivores. In the wild and in captivity they take a mix of animal foods (worms, crustaceans, small invertebrates) and plant material.² In an aquarium, they do best on variety rather than one staple.

• Good base: quality sinking pellets/wafers.
• Protein variety: frozen/live foods such as brine shrimp, daphnia, bloodworms (as part of a rotation, not the entire diet).
• Plant matter: small amounts of blanched veg can help round out the diet.

Feed small portions and watch the substrate. These fish are enthusiastic eaters, but leftover food quickly becomes ammonia and trouble in the water column.

Tank requirements: water, space, and layout

The draft’s “20 gallons” minimum is too broad to be trustworthy. Some smaller botiids may cope in modest tanks, but many “botia” sold in shops are energetic schooling loaches that need length and floor area more than height.

Water conditions

Most botiid loaches come from warm tropical freshwater. FishBase lists a broad tolerance for clown loach: pH 5.0–8.0, hardness 5–12 dH, and 25–30 °C.² Many aquarium guides keep them slightly more narrowly for stability—roughly mid-20s °C, soft to medium hardness, and neutral-to-slightly-acidic water.

The detail that matters most is not chasing a perfect pH number; it’s clean, stable, oxygen-rich water with strong filtration and regular maintenance.

Substrate and décor

Choose sand or smooth, fine gravel. These fish spend their lives probing and sifting; sharp gravel and jagged décor can damage barbels and skin. Build several hiding places—tubes, caves, wood tangles—so subordinate fish can disappear without being trapped.

Tank size and group size

Size your tank to the species and to the adult fish. A medium botiid kept in a proper group needs floor space; large species like clown loaches need a genuinely big aquarium over the long term. FishBase notes clown loaches are best kept in groups of 5+ and gives a minimum aquarium length of 150 cm for the species.²

Breeding and reproduction: what usually happens at home

The draft states Botia “lay eggs in caves or crevices” and describes routine breeding. For many botiid loaches, successful home breeding is uncommon, and methods vary by species. FishBase lists Botia lohachata as oviparous (egg-laying), but that doesn’t mean it will breed readily in a standard community tank.¹

If breeding is your goal, start with an exact species ID and species-specific guidance. Otherwise, assume you’re keeping a long-term display fish, not running a breeding project.

Common health issues (and the “white spot” name trap)

Loaches are often sensitive to poor water quality and stress, and they’re widely regarded as prone to outbreaks of Ichthyophthirius multifiliis (ich/white spot) when newly purchased or when conditions slip.

White spot in fish (ich) vs White spot disease in prawns

In Australia, “white spot disease” is also the name of a serious viral disease of prawns and other decapod crustaceans (WSSV). It is not the same thing as ich in aquarium fish.⁴ The shared name causes endless confusion, especially when people are searching in a hurry.

Ich (Ichthyophthirius): prevention first

Ich is commonly introduced with new fish or shared equipment. A quarantine period for new arrivals is strongly recommended, and equipment should not be shared between systems unless disinfected.⁵

Ich (Ichthyophthirius): treatment basics

The visible white spots are only part of the parasite’s life cycle. Treatments work best when repeated over time to catch the free-swimming stages, not just the spots you can see.⁵ Provide vigorous aeration during treatment and follow product directions closely.

In the United States, the FDA has publicly noted Faunamor as a legally available treatment indexed for ich in ornamental finfish (April 8, 2025).⁶ Availability and legal status vary by country, so check what applies where you live before medicating.

References

1. FishBase — Botia lohachata (species summary)
2. FishBase — Chromobotia macracanthus (clown loach) (species summary)
3. Aquatic Arts — Serpent Loach/Botia (care notes on grouping, parameters, diet)
4. Outbreak.gov.au — White spot disease (WSSV) and note distinguishing it from aquarium fish “white spot”
5. University of Florida IFAS Extension — Ichthyophthirius multifiliis (White Spot) infections in fish
6. U.S. FDA — Announcement on legally available treatment for ich in ornamental pet fish (April 8, 2025)
7. Australian Government Department of Agriculture, Fisheries and Forestry — AQUAVETPLAN white spot disease of prawns (WSSV) manual
8. FishBase — Botia lohachata (alternate FishBase summary access)