Bluetongue Lizards as Pets

People usually start searching for blue-tongue lizards when they’re weighing up a first reptile, checking what care gear they’ll actually need, or trying to work out whether keeping one is legal where they live. The basics are simple, but the details matter: the wrong heat and UV can quietly weaken bones over months, and poor hygiene can spread germs through a household.

Below is a clear, practical guide to what a blue-tongue needs day to day, what tends to go wrong in captivity, and the legal reality in Australia: you can’t just pick one up from the backyard, and in many places you’ll need a licence and a legally sourced animal.^{4, 8}

Quick facts (blue-tongue lizards as pets)

• Adult size: commonly up to about 60 cm total length (varies by species/subspecies).⁴
• Longevity: can live 20+ years in human care (long-term commitment).⁴
• Diet: omnivorous (a mix of animal protein/invertebrates and plant matter).³
• Temperament: often calm when settled, but will defend itself if stressed or restrained; bites can break skin (not venomous).⁴
• Core setup: a secure enclosure with a strong temperature gradient, appropriate UV, hiding places, and clean water.^{2, 5}
• Common preventable problems: bone disease linked to poor UV/calcium and husbandry issues; respiratory disease risk rises with poor conditions and stress.²

What a blue-tongue lizard is (and what it isn’t)

“Blue-tongue” usually refers to several Australian skinks in the genus Tiliqua. They’re robust, ground-dwelling lizards that spend a lot of time moving through cover at a measured pace, basking to warm up, then retreating again. In the wild, they’re often found in open areas with ground cover such as grasses and leaf litter.⁴

That blue tongue is a defensive display: the lizard gapes, hisses, and flashes the colour to startle a threat long enough to slip away. It’s not “aggression” so much as self-protection, and in captivity it usually means the animal is overwhelmed or feels cornered.⁴

Characteristics and behaviour you’ll actually notice at home

Most pet blue-tongues settle into a steady routine: they bask, patrol, eat with enthusiasm, then disappear into a hide. They’re diurnal (day-active) and do best when the enclosure lighting follows a consistent day–night cycle.²

A common misconception is that they’re “sociable” in the sense of needing company. Many keepers house them singly to avoid stress, competition for food, and the risk of breeding or fighting. If you’re considering keeping more than one, get species-specific advice from a reptile vet or an experienced, licensed keeper first.

Housing and enclosure requirements

The enclosure should be secure, easy to clean, and large enough to allow a proper warm-to-cool temperature gradient. What matters most isn’t a single “correct” number, but giving the lizard options: a hot basking zone, a cooler end, and hides at different points so it can regulate its body temperature without feeling exposed.^{2, 5}

Heating and lighting (where most care mistakes happen)

Blue-tongues rely on external heat and light to function normally. A well-designed gradient lets them warm up to digest and move, then cool down when needed. As a guide, RSPCA Australia describes a thermal gradient reaching from the high 20s into the low 40s °C for eastern blue-tongues, and notes they require adequate daily light as diurnal reptiles.²

They also need UV for bone health. RSPCA Australia notes they’re very reliant on ultraviolet light and may meet this with a suitable artificial UV source or several hours of unfiltered sunlight each week (where safe and appropriate).²

Furnishings and substrate

• Hides: at least one, ideally more than one, so the lizard can retreat on both the warm and cool side.
• Basking surface: a stable, non-slip surface under the heat source.
• Water: a heavy, shallow dish that can’t be easily tipped; change and clean it regularly.
• Cleaning: spot-clean daily; do deeper cleans routinely so waste doesn’t build up.

Diet and feeding (keeping it balanced, not just “they eat everything”)

Blue-tongues are omnivores. In the wild they take a mix that can include insects, snails, fruits and other plant material, and carrion.⁷

In captivity, aim for variety and consistency rather than novelty. Obesity is common in pet reptiles when food is energy-dense and offered too often, especially if the enclosure is too cool for proper digestion. If you’re unsure about proportions for your animal’s age and species, a reptile-experienced vet is the safest place to start.

Feeding notes that prevent trouble

• Use supplements thoughtfully: where UV and diet aren’t adequate, bone health can suffer over time. Get vet guidance rather than guessing.
• Provide fresh water daily and clean the bowl often.
• Keep food hygiene tight: separate reptile food prep from human food areas where possible, and wash hands after handling food items and bowls.⁹

Health and care: common problems and early warning signs

Many serious issues start as quiet husbandry problems: incorrect temperatures, inadequate UV, chronic damp or poor ventilation, and a diet that’s heavy on treats and light on nutrition. RSPCA Australia specifically highlights the importance of UV for bone health and maintaining appropriate temperature and humidity ranges to prevent illness.²

Signs to take seriously

• Not basking at all, persistent hiding, or unusual lethargy
• Open-mouth breathing, bubbling at the nostrils, wheezing, or persistent mucus
• Swollen limbs or jaw, tremors, weakness, or difficulty moving (possible bone issues)
• Ongoing diarrhoea, dramatic weight loss, or refusal to eat for longer than expected

If you see these, don’t “wait and see” for weeks. Reptiles often mask illness until they can’t, and early treatment is usually simpler than late treatment.

Handling and interaction

Blue-tongues generally tolerate gentle handling, but they’re not toys and they don’t need frequent physical contact to thrive. A calm, predictable routine is more important than “bonding time”. Start slow, keep sessions brief, and always support the body securely.

Remember: they can bite, and an adult bite can be painful and may break the skin (though they are not venomous). Clean any bite like any other animal bite and seek medical advice if you’re concerned.⁴

Hygiene around reptiles (especially in family homes)

Reptiles can carry Salmonella without looking unwell, and it can spread from their skin, enclosure items, and tank water to hands and household surfaces. Victorian health advice recommends thorough hand-washing after touching reptiles or anything in their environment, keeping reptile equipment away from kitchens and food areas, and discouraging direct handling for young children and other higher-risk people.⁹

Legal considerations in Australia

Australia treats native reptiles as protected wildlife. Rules vary by state and territory, but two points are consistent:

• Don’t take blue-tongues from the wild. In NSW, for example, it’s against the law to take native reptiles from the wild, and pet native reptiles must be legally sourced (licensed dealer/breeder).¹
• You may need a licence to keep one. NSW regulates private keeping through native animal keeper licensing, with different licence types and conditions.¹

If you’re unsure what applies to you, check your state or territory wildlife licensing page before you buy anything. It’s much easier to set things up correctly than to fix a problem after the fact.

Costs and availability (a realistic note)

Purchase price varies widely by species, age, and legal sourcing, but the larger and more reliable costs are usually the enclosure, thermostats, heat source, UV lighting, substrate, and vet care over the animal’s long lifespan. With individuals sometimes living 20 years or more, it’s worth budgeting like you would for a long-term pet, not a short hobby.⁴

Final thoughts

A blue-tongue lizard can be a steady, fascinating animal to live alongside: alert in the daytime, content to bask, and usually tolerant of calm routines. Success comes from the basics done well—heat, UV, a varied diet, good hygiene, and legal, ethical sourcing—and from noticing small changes early, before they turn into illness.

References

1. NSW Department of Climate Change, Energy, the Environment and Water (Environment & Heritage) – Reptile keeper licences
2. RSPCA Australia Knowledgebase – How should I care for my blue tongue skink?
3. NSW Department of Education (Animals in Schools) – Blue-tongue lizard environment (temperature and enclosure notes)
4. Australian Museum – Eastern Blue-tongue Lizard
5. Service NSW – Apply for a native animal keeper licence
6. Queensland Government – Licences to keep, use or display native animals
7. Aquarium of the Pacific – Blue-tongued skink (species overview)
8. Victorian Government (vic.gov.au) – Wildlife licences in Victoria (legal constraints on taking/keeping wildlife)
9. Better Health Channel (Victoria) – Pets: safe handling of reptiles and tropical fish