Most people land on bearded dragon care pages for one reason: they want to know whether their setup is “close enough” — the right enclosure size, the right heat and UVB, and the right food — before small mistakes become big health problems.
Central bearded dragons (the common pet species in Australia) are hardy when their basics are correct, and surprisingly fragile when they’re not. Heat, UVB, and diet work together; if one is off, digestion slows, calcium can’t be used properly, and illness follows quietly rather than suddenly.1, 2
Adult size: typically 45–60 cm (head to tail)3
Typical lifespan (well cared for): often 10+ years in captivity (varies with husbandry and health)4
Diet: omnivorous — insects and plant matter; may take small vertebrates in the wild3
Native habitat: arid to semi-arid woodland, shrubland and grassland across inland eastern Australia3
Natural habitat and origin
The central bearded dragon (Pogona vitticeps) comes from inland Australia, where days are bright and warm, nights cool down, and the ground offers a mix of open sun, rough timber, rocks and low shrubs.3
In the wild they move between sun and shade to regulate body temperature. That same behaviour is what you’re copying in captivity with a basking zone, a cooler retreat, and steady UVB across the day.1, 2
Physical characteristics
Appearance and key traits
Adults usually reach around 45–60 cm including the tail. Colour varies with genetics and environment, often matching sandy or earthy tones in wild animals.3
The “beard” is an expandable patch of spiny scales under the throat. It can darken and flare during displays, and is part of how bearded dragons communicate and deter threats without needing to flee.3
Temperament and behaviour
In captivity, bearded dragons are often calm and tolerant of routine handling, especially when raised with gentle, consistent contact. They’re still a prey animal, and stress tends to show as stillness, gaping, darkening, flattening the body, or repeated attempts to escape rather than obvious aggression.1
They’re diurnal: active by day, resting at night. A predictable light cycle and access to a proper basking zone keeps their daily rhythm stable, which supports appetite and digestion.2
Housing and environment
Enclosure size and layout
As a mainly ground-dwelling lizard, a long enclosure matters more than height. For an adult, aim for an enclosure around 1.2–1.8 m long, about 0.6 m wide, and 0.6–0.9 m high, with a secure lid and good ventilation.1
Set it up like a small stretch of semi-arid country:
- a basking platform (rock or solid branch) under the heat source
- a hide on the cooler end
- climbing branches and sturdy décor for choice and movement
Temperature: basking spot and gradient
Bearded dragons need a thermal gradient so they can choose the temperature they want. A practical target is a warm basking area up to about 45°C, with a cooler area around the high 20s, and a night drop that stays safely above the high teens to low 20s depending on your home and the animal’s age and health.1, 2
Use a thermostat on heat sources and measure temperatures where the dragon actually sits (probe thermometers beat stick-on dials). Burns and chronic overheating happen when keepers trust the globe wattage instead of the surface temperature.2
UVB lighting (non-negotiable)
UVB enables vitamin D synthesis, which is essential for calcium metabolism and healthy bone development. Provide a quality reptile UVB source positioned at the correct distance for the specific lamp, and keep it on a consistent day/night schedule.2
Humidity and ventilation
Central bearded dragons are a desert-adapted species. Keep the enclosure dry with good airflow, and avoid over-misting or densely planted layouts that trap humidity.1
Substrate: what to use (and what to avoid)
Easy-to-clean, non-loose substrates are safest for most homes: paper towel, newspaper, tile, or reptile-safe liners. Loose substrates can be used by experienced keepers, but require care — especially with juveniles and animals that lunge at food — because accidental ingestion can contribute to gut blockage and other problems.1
Diet and nutrition
What a balanced diet looks like
In the wild, central bearded dragons eat a mix of vegetation (leaves, flowers, fruit), invertebrates, and occasionally small vertebrates.3
In captivity, aim for variety rather than one “perfect” feeder insect or one staple vegetable. As they mature, most individuals shift towards a higher proportion of plant matter compared with juveniles, who generally need more insect protein for growth.3
Feeding rhythm and supplements
- Greens and vegetables: offered regularly (often daily), chopped to bite size.
- Insects: offered more frequently for juveniles; less often for adults. Choose appropriately sized prey.
- Calcium/vitamin supplementation: used as directed by your reptile vet; needs depend on UVB quality, diet, age and breeding status.3
Fresh water should be available. Some bearded dragons drink from a bowl, while others take droplets from surfaces after bathing or light spraying; both patterns are observed in managed care.3
Foods to avoid
Some foods are risky because of toxins or nutritional issues. Avoid avocado and rhubarb, and treat fruit as an occasional item rather than a staple. If you’re unsure about a plant, leave it out until you can confirm it’s safe.5
Avoid wild-caught insects where pesticides or parasites are possible.
Health and lifespan
Common problems linked to husbandry
Many bearded dragon health issues trace back to the environment rather than “bad luck”. The big ones to watch for are:
- Metabolic bone disease (MBD): often associated with insufficient UVB and/or inadequate calcium intake. Early signs can include weakness, tremors, soft jaw, and changes in posture or movement.2
- Respiratory disease: risk rises with poor temperature control, damp conditions, and chronic stress. Signs include wheezing, mucus, open-mouth breathing at rest, and lethargy.
- Parasites and gut trouble: may show up as weight loss, poor appetite, diarrhoea, or persistently abnormal droppings.
When to see a vet
Book a reptile vet appointment promptly if you notice persistent appetite loss, marked lethargy, straining, sudden weight change, wheezing, or swelling of the limbs or jaw. A routine health check (including faecal testing where appropriate) helps catch problems early, before they become slow, expensive emergencies.
Handling and socialisation
Handle calmly, close to the ground, supporting the whole body. Let the dragon walk onto your hand rather than lifting from above, which can trigger a defensive response. Wash hands before and after handling, and keep faces away from the mouth — not because bearded dragons are “mean”, but because mouths carry bacteria like any reptile’s.1
Be cautious about “pairs or groups”. Cohabitation can lead to chronic stress, competition for heat and food, and injuries, even when animals look quiet. Many keepers have the best results housing adults separately unless they have a specific, well-managed breeding plan and a way to separate animals immediately if behaviour shifts.
Grooming and routine maintenance
Shedding
Shedding comes in patches rather than one neat peel. Provide rough surfaces (branch, rock) to rub against, keep hydration steady, and avoid pulling stuck shed. If shed repeatedly constricts toes or the tail tip, check with a vet.
Cleaning
- Daily: remove droppings and uneaten insects; wipe obvious mess.
- Regularly: wash bowls and hard surfaces; replace liners/substrate as needed.
- Periodically: a deeper clean of the enclosure and furnishings, then thorough rinsing and drying before the dragon goes back in.
Quiet facts people often notice
Arm-waving and head-bobbing are real behaviours used for communication. The “third eye” (parietal eye) on top of the head detects changes in light and shadow, which can help with predator awareness, even though it doesn’t form images like the main eyes do.6
References
- RSPCA Australia Knowledgebase – How should I care for my bearded dragon?
- Vetafarm – Bearded Dragon Basics
- Australian Museum – Central Bearded Dragon (Pogona vitticeps)
- Once in a Wild – Bearded Dragon (Pogona vitticeps) overview
- MSD Veterinary Manual – Nutrition in reptiles
- Encyclopaedia Britannica – Parietal eye
Veterinary Advisor, Veterinarian London Area, United Kingdom